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Old 04-22-2011, 08:00 PM   #11 
Panthera
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They look like they're dying. That's all I have to say. I'm not going to mention how creepy this video is, like it looks like a Serial Killer shot it, or how bad it is that they're kept in those for conditioning. Although we both know its probably they're permanent homes dont we?

And I'm not even GOING to touch on the subject that when the female is all clamped up and looking like she's dead, you tap the glass and shake it. That's what 5 year olds do when they go to petco. Not a so called person attempting to breed their fish.
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Old 04-22-2011, 08:56 PM   #12 
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Originally Posted by 1fish2fish View Post
Actually Abby, most Bettas are breeding size at 3-3.5 months old. With fish it's not how old they are but if they're big enough to spawn and responsive. Every pair I've ever spawned has been around the 3-6 month mark, and most of those were much closer to the 3 month mark. Heck, I've got a female in spawn right now that is just barely 12 weeks old and she's ready to go.

Most breeding set ups are pretty minimal, some java moss or other floater or some IAL. Its easier to do water changes if you don't have to take take a bunch of stuff out. My male breeders are kept in 1 or 2 gallon bare bottom tanks with only a piece or two of IAL. I'm able to do a 100% water change in under 1 minute that way and the fish hardly notices it was ever out of the water. Room lighting is sufficient since the fish don't need light to see, you just need light to see the fish. The fish are probably more comfortable in a darker environment.

well here in OZ we prefer to let our fish mature a little before breeding.
these are the "Conditioning tanks" not the spawning tank. so in all respect there should be something in there for the fish to rest on or hide in. i asked about lighting because if hes got no heaters lights will at least warm the water a little.

your comments to me are just encouraging the ill keeping of these poor fish
I am trying to get the op to give the fish a better environment. the room seems to get little light so the water temp is going to be and stay low. a light will help this and i dont mean a roof light i mean a lamp
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:00 PM   #13 
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how is 1F2F encouraging the ill treatment of fish? She is telling the OP what she does, and maybe he will follow. 100% water changes every day, a heated 1-2 gallon tank, indian almond leaves, etc... does that sound like a bad enviornment to you? And by saying he needs a lamp, you are almost suggesting he doesn't need a heater at all. Rather than say "you need more light", try saying something like "you need a heater".
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:02 PM   #14 
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I try not to mention things already mentioned repeating the same thing over and over gets repetitive and ignored
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Old 04-22-2011, 09:34 PM   #15 
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If the fish are willing to breed they are mature enough, regardless of age. The only reason for growing a fish out to 6 months is to allow it to get it's full finnage which is not necessary for breeding anyways.

He does have a heater in one tank. Not necessarily an acceptable heater but he does have one. There are some breeders of the opinion that conditioning is best done around 76-77*F in which case that heater may be keeping the temperature at a decent range. Another option would be to heat the room and not the tanks. Just because the room is dark doesn't mean its necessarily cold.

I've already address the problems with the OP's set up. So obviously I'm not saying he is doing things correctly. I am, however, providing useful information instead of having yet another bash the OP thread. But no, those 6 or so threads in the past that turned into 6 pages of how much everyone hates the OP turned out so well How does that look to new members or guests? They don't know the history of this member.. they just see someone asking a question and getting bashed.


Just because something is not being done how you would do it doesn't necessarily make it wrong. There's no evidence proving a hide makes bettas more comfortable or healthier. In my experience my fish NEVER use their hides so I got rid of them.. it's a waste of my time to provide hides and have to remove them and prolong water changes.

But since my replies obviously were saying great job OP I'll rephrase.

@OP

First, You need to provide BOTH fish with at least 1 gallon containers that are full of clean, dechlorinated water. These containers need to be heated to AT LEAST 76*F, IMO 78* is best. NO EXCEPTIONS on the temperature rule.

Second, You need to change 100% of the water daily, replacing it with clean, dechlorinated water. It's up to you whether you age your water or not. I do not age my water but there are benefits to doing so. NO EXCEPTIONS on the water change rule.

Third, You need to feed your fish at least 2 times a day. I try to feed mine 3 times a day. You need to feed a mixture of high quality foods. The foods I use to condition are: Atison's Betta Pro pellets, Frozen Bloodworms, Frozen Daphnia, Frozen Brine Shrimp, Frozen Glass worms, Live White worms, and NLS Growth Formula pellets. Not feeding enough foods and only feeding 1 or 2 foods will not get your fish into condition.

Fourth, You need to continue this regime for AT LEAST 2 weeks. NO EXCEPTIONS. Each part is equally as important as the next, you can't skip one part and hope that they'll still be conditioned.

If you feel your female is stressed from shipping give her an extra week of conditioning to get her into shape.

Conditioning is by far the easiest part of spawning. Honestly if you can't even handle that I really don't think your cut out for breeding.
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Old 04-23-2011, 01:54 AM   #16 
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What 1fish2fish said.
Also you're pronouncing Betta wrong, just saying.
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Old 04-23-2011, 04:38 PM   #17 
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How about some chocolate fudge, everybody?
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Old 04-23-2011, 08:25 PM   #18 
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I've got some chocolate chip cookies.
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Old 04-23-2011, 09:32 PM   #19 
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You guys bring the chocolate, I will bring the candy. :)
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Old 04-23-2011, 10:47 PM   #20 
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Anyone have any Easter candy?
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