Need Help Quick.

[TheKingsFish]

Not sure what the H E Double-Hockey-Sticks this is, but it's aggressive so time is of the essence here. It looks to me like some form of Ich that is eating her slime coat and spreading rapidly.

She was just bred, so the housing situation is rather complicated. I want to know whether I should answer this according to where she is normally, or where she has been over the last few days.

Before anyone bites my head off: the low water level is for her own good. The water she was in when I found her was only an inch (maybe an inch and a half) deeper than this and she was making a lot of trips to the surface--not to mention having a hard time doing it.

Before anyone tries to bite my head off again: the container in the picture is a quarantine bubble, not her normal home.

Housing I will answer this one when someone tells me which one to apply: see above
What size is your tank?
What temperature is your tank?
Does your tank have a filter?
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?
Is your tank heated?
What tank mates does your betta fish live with?

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Frozen Blood Worms and Hikari pellets (they're the best we have access to in town)
How often do you feed your betta fish? Once a day

Maintenance
How often do you perform a water change? The schedule varied in this case due to her other situation. Will explain in the "medical history"
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? See above
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? Prime water conditioner

Water Parameters: Not recently. See "symptoms and treatment"
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?

Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness:
Alkalinity:

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed?
Covered in a white rash that is fairly uniformly distributed over her body, gills, mouth, eyes and pectoral fins.
Presence of a sort of gauzy layer that may be slime coat.
See pictures.
How has your betta fish's behavior changed?
Lethargic, having difficulty getting to the surface to breathe.
When did you start noticing the symptoms?
2 hours ago. Began treatment immediately.
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how?
Immediately placed in sterilized quarantine
Aged water (allowed to rest for 24 hours after conditioning) + potassium permanganate (Jungle Water Clear)-->We were told in another thread that KMnO4 kills things
Lowered water level to minimize effort to breathe
Cooler water
Placed in the dark to ease stress
Does your fish have any history of being ill?
Yes. Hence the complication: we were in the middle of treating her for a Columnaris infection when this hit. The colony was dead and I was about to give her the last dose of antibiotic when I found this.

Instructions for API T.C. Tetracycline state that the first two doses should be put in 24 hrs apart, then let another 24 hrs pass before doing a 25% water change and adding the 3rd dose. Dose #4 goes straight in, then a water change gets done when the full course is over on day 5.

Today would have been day 4, but this happened.

This is why her housing situation is difficult to explain, since she was in a different quarantine set-up for that course of treatment.
How old is your fish (approximately)? No more than 6 months.

[TheKingsFish]

This has popped up within the last 24 hours.

[Abby]

she does need more water usually hospital and quarantine tanks are about 1 gal.
thats Ich or velvet i havent got my glasses on. plus the glass seems dirty so harder to tell whats on the fish and whats not.

water: she needs double that or more id you put a plant in a one gal tank she will have space and something to rest on.

[TheKingsFish]

Can't plant. Permanganate will kill the plant before it kills what's on the fish.

She was in something deeper and it wasn't helping. Anything deep is going to be difficult at this point. We will give her more water when she can get to the surface to breathe.

Only the picture on the top is through the glass: the spots in the water are air bubbles.
The picture on the bottom is through the opening of the container, looking down. Unfortunately our lights leave us with a lot of glare from anything reflective.

[Abby]

Originally Posted by TheKingsFish

Can't plant. Permanganate will kill the plant before it kills what's on the fish.

She was in something deeper and it wasn't helping. Anything deep is going to be difficult at this point. We will give her more water when she can get to the surface to breathe.

fake plants cant die lol. she still needs to be able to move and swim. less water will cause her to stress and thats the last thing you want.

[StarvingPoet]

We don't have any fake plants -all the ones we use in our tanks are alive. She can still move around the tank and has done so -but only when we disturbed her to move the container to a safer, darker spot. She wasn't swimming around when she had more water either. It seemed to be more stressful for her struggling to reach the surface for air than having lower water.

What we really need is to know how to treat whatever it is that's hurting her.

[Abby]

Usually Adding AQ salt helps. but my folders a little undated for the treatments and amount if you look up Ich and Velvet you should find something
My paper work says:
DISEASE: ICK
GENERAL INFO:
Ick is a pesky little parasite. If you always add aquarium salt to your betta’s water (1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 2 1/2 Gal of water) and one drop of Aquarisol per gal, your betta will never get ick. It is very contagious, but bettas will fully recover if treated promptly. Frozen live food may carry ich.
tiny white dots on body, head and fins, typical of ich
uSYMPTOMS:
Betta has white dots (looks like he was sprinkled with salt) all over his body and head, even eyes. He may be less active, may have stopped eating, fins may be clumped. he may also be darting and scratching against rocks, plants and whatever else he can find.
uTREATMENT:
Ick is a parasite. Because ick is contagious, it is preferable to treat the whole tank when one fish is found to have it. Ick is temperature sensitive: Leave your betta in the community tank and raise temperature to 85 F and add one drop of Aquarisol per gal every day until cured. It will only take a few days to get rid of the pesky little parasites. If your betta lives in a jar/bowl, then you cannot raise the temperature. Do not attempt to put a heater in a tank smaller than 5 gal. You cannot control temperature fluctuation in a small tank/bowl and will probably end up boiling your betta!!! Do a full water change and add one drop of Aquarisol and salt (per above proportions) to the water. If you have empty tank and heater, then move betta to it and raise temperature of water to 85 F as per above. The reason is that the parasites are sensitive to the heat and at 85F they become free swimming (detach themselves from betta’s skin and go for a swim in the water which contains the Aquarisol. Aquarisol then kills them). Guess their mothers never told them to never go for a swim right after dinner!! :)))). Note, BettaZing (included in our Betta First Aid Kit) can also do the job, in case you do not have aquarisol on hand. if you have both, go with the old fashion Aquarisol recipe, it works great.

DISEASE: VELVET

uGENERAL INFO:
Velvet is another pesky little parasite. If you always add aquarium salt to your betta’s water (1 teaspoon of aquarium salt per 2 1/2 Gal of water) and one drop of Aquarisol per gal, your betta will probably never get velvet. It is very contagious, but bettas will fully recover if treated promptly. Velvet is the number one killer of small betta fries. :((
uSYMPTOMS:
Velvet is hard to spot, but can be best spotted with a flashlight. Shine the light on the betta’s body: if it looks like it is covered with a fine gold or rust mist, then it has velvet. A betta with velvet will act sick, so look for clamped fins, scratching against rocks/gravel/tank, loss of appetite, loss of color etc...
uTREATMENT: Velvet is a parasite. Because velvet is very VERY contagious, it is preferable to treat the whole tank when one fish is found to have it. BettaZing (included in our Betta First Aid Kit) contains two agents that are proven velvet killers, so it is EXTREMELY effective against this disease :). So far it is the meanest velvet killer I have ever found :). Use Bettazing at a 12 drop per gallon concentration (yes, it is OK to do so you have my blessings). Isolate any individual with velvet, treat the whole tank even if other fish look OK and remember WASH YOUR HANDS!!! Sanitize fish nets! Keep bowl or tank in a darker place, velvet will be easier to kill if it is not getting any light.

[Abby]

Originally Posted by StarvingPoet

We don't have any fake plants -all the ones we use in our tanks are alive. She can still move around the tank and has done so -but only when we disturbed her to move the container to a safer, darker spot. She wasn't swimming around when she had more water either. It seemed to be more stressful for her struggling to reach the surface for air than having lower water.

What we really need is to know how to treat whatever it is that's hurting her.

Whos fish is it im confused O.O

[StarvingPoet]

Thank you.

[Abby]

err your welcome i hope this helps