Betta Fish Care  
Go Back   Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care > Breeding Betta Fish
Check out the eBook Betta Fish Care Made Easy
betta fish
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 05-29-2011, 12:43 PM   #11 
turtle10
Member
 
turtle10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Quote:
Originally Posted by SashimiBetta View Post
My Bloodworms are frozen, yes.

Ok, so your saying I need to buy microworms & fresh hatched BBS, set the heater to 80-85*, feed the adults frozen bloodworms, & lighting for 12hrs.

Am i missing anything?
Yes, make sure you feed the adults the live/frozen foods for at least two weeks and do daily 100% water changes.

I would buy two worms cultures for more variation in the nutrients. Remember you need these at least a week ahead of time. You will probably have to buy the cultures online. The baby brine shrimp you will have to hatch your self every day because they only live about twelve hours. You will probably want two hatcheries going at once. The reason you need these foods and not the mosquito larvae is because the fry will be smaller than the larvae. Here is a great link to fry growth: http://www.bettatalk.com/fry_growth.htm

Remember, once the female and male are in the tank together, keep the lights on 24/7 until the fry are free swimming.
turtle10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:00 PM   #12 
SashimiBetta
New Member
 
SashimiBetta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fish Bowl. (:
so your saying..That once I release the female from the container that I have to keep the light on 24/7?
SashimiBetta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:04 PM   #13 
turtle10
Member
 
turtle10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Yes, until the fry are free swimming. This way he can see any eggs that fall and catch them, and once the fry hatch if any fall from the nest he has to put them back up. If it is dark he won't be able to see the falling fry and they will be stuck at the bottom of the tank.

That is why conditioning is very important, the male with be using a lot of his energy and needs all the nutrition he can before having to raise a bunch of falling fry lol.
turtle10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:05 PM   #14 
SashimiBetta
New Member
 
SashimiBetta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fish Bowl. (:
Overall, I still have these questions:

1.) I leave the female in the container for how long?
2.) Once I release the female, how long do I let her out, because I know I can't watch them for 24/7 (i need sleep!)?
SashimiBetta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:18 PM   #15 
turtle10
Member
 
turtle10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
1) Until she shows the vertical (up and down) bars, and/or swims at a 45 degree angle when the male comes by (sort of like she is bowing to him), and/or she is acting generally flirty, and showing her colors. The male should also be responding well, like swimming back and forth by the jar to show the female his colors and large fins, occasional flaring, etc. There are really a lot of signs, but these are generally the most obvious. Also the male might have built a bubblenest and could be going back and forth between working on the nest and flirting with the female. BUT the male will not always have a nest built, sometimes it isn't built until after the female is released. Some people will say wait until a bubblenest is built, but that is not always necessary.

2) Breeding will usually occur within 1-2 days, but may take longer. Watch them as much as you can without being obvious to them, like about every 2 hours if possible. Watch for aggression. There will be chasing and nipping, which is normal, but if the female develops horizontal stripes take her out. If you think any of them are at risk of injury, take them out. Sometimes pairs just aren't compatible. Definitely sleep at night! You will need energy for all the water changes you will have to do with the fry lol. Just check on them right before bed and as soon as you can when you wake up. A lot could have happened over night (which is why the plants are needed so one can hide from danger if need be) so check for signs of injury and eggs. If the male is guarding his nest and won't let the female come near, they probably already bred. So to finally answer your question the female usually stays in the breeding tank for 1-3 days.
turtle10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:29 PM   #16 
Ethan
Member
 
Ethan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by turtle10 View Post
1) Until she shows the vertical (up and down) bars, and/or swims at a 45 degree angle when the male comes by (sort of like she is bowing to him), and/or she is acting generally flirty, and showing her colors. The male should also be responding well, like swimming back and forth by the jar to show the female his colors and large fins, occasional flaring, etc. There are really a lot of signs, but these are generally the most obvious. Also the male might have built a bubblenest and could be going back and forth between working on the nest and flirting with the female. BUT the male will not always have a nest built, sometimes it isn't built until after the female is released. Some people will say wait until a bubblenest is built, but that is not always necessary.

2) Breeding will usually occur within 1-2 days, but may take longer. Watch them as much as you can without being obvious to them, like about every 2 hours if possible. Watch for aggression. There will be chasing and nipping, which is normal, but if the female develops horizontal stripes take her out. If you think any of them are at risk of injury, take them out. Sometimes pairs just aren't compatible. Definitely sleep at night! You will need energy for all the water changes you will have to do with the fry lol. Just check on them right before bed and as soon as you can when you wake up. A lot could have happened over night (which is why the plants are needed so one can hide from danger if need be) so check for signs of injury and eggs. If the male is guarding his nest and won't let the female come near, they probably already bred. So to finally answer your question the female usually stays in the breeding tank for 1-3 days.
+1

I was going to explain it but well..............Turtle10 covered it all
Ethan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:42 PM   #17 
SashimiBetta
New Member
 
SashimiBetta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fish Bowl. (:
What if my female keeps switching? Like said, I attempted the pair (delta/veiltail) before - & the female gets the stress lines but keeps switching back with the vertical lines...What does THAT mean?

So many questions! :D
SashimiBetta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 01:46 PM   #18 
turtle10
Member
 
turtle10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Austin, Texas
Hmmm… what is she doing when she goes back to the stress stripes? Does she switch really fast or slow?
turtle10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 02:00 PM   #19 
DarkMoon17
Member
 
DarkMoon17's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: MA and MO
Keep in mind that when you attempted to breed the other pair they were not conditioned properly... The female may not respond correctly if she is not physically prepared to breed.
DarkMoon17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2011, 03:09 PM   #20 
SashimiBetta
New Member
 
SashimiBetta's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fish Bowl. (:
Well, my female follows the male. Than when the male chases her she gets the stress lines. But when he stops and they are just looking at each other, she gets the breeding stripes.
SashimiBetta is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:37 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.