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Old 07-10-2011, 06:53 PM   #21 
Pitluvs
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For the record, I do not 'dump' any fish into an aquarium. No one should ever do such a thing!! I float for 30mins then take away cup water and add aquarium water over another 30min period. By the time my fish goes from cup to tank, the tank and cup have the same water. Even then I do not 'dump' I tip the cup sideways and let them swim out on their own accord. I also set water our for 24 hours, treat and then add to the tank. I never add water from the tap. I am very cautious with my tanks, this isn't my first time, but my first time this year. I really don't understand why the constant trying to disprove? I'm just working on what I've seen in my own home, as I can't actually talk to my fish and ask what they prefer ;)
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Old 07-16-2011, 04:12 PM   #22 
dramaqueen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jrf456 View Post
DON'T LISTEN TO THE PEOPLE WHO TELL YOU TO DO 100% WATER CHANGES.

Look.. I had the same problem.
Most of the " helpful " people on this site are compulsive about these fish and go to the extremes stressing them out, basically they keep them healthy physically but not mentally.

Scoop out about a teacup sized cup of water every day which is about 5-10%. Then do a 50% once a week.

100% water changes stress them out and shock them.

Just trust me.

I listened to the people here who told me to do this when I first started bettas. All 8 bettas I bought died in 2 weeks following these peoples rules. I now have 5 healthy happy ones doing these water changes.

I'm not speaking for the entire site.. A few helpful people here.. But most just take it too far. Sorry for your loss.. Good luck with your next one.
I find this post a wee bit on the rude side. I've done 100% changes on my1-2.5 gallon containers and never had a problem.
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Old 07-16-2011, 05:37 PM   #23 
Irishdancer
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I'm confused. I thought that I had to do 100% water changes because my tanks are on the small side. I always put them in the small cup that they are sold in while cleaning the tank, and then I float them for 10 minutes or so before letting them into the water. Is this too stressful for them? I haven't noticed any signs of stress in either of the fish I have now, but my first fish died after I'd been cleaning his tank more often because he was sick.
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Old 07-16-2011, 07:38 PM   #24 
masshiimarro
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hmm.. any animal thats already sick has a suppressed immune system, and stress furthers the suppression. so imagine with a very compromised immune system, the sickness could very well take over much more easily. imo, bascially, depending on your fish's personality, you could potentially be doing more bad than good. my opinion is that if they can cope with the 'dirtier' water conditions and it stresses them less.. i dont see why not? fish are adaptive, but maybe sometimes the water change is just too sudden of a change for a sick fish to take.

well, and also more water change leaves more room for error/flucuations..
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Old 07-16-2011, 07:43 PM   #25 
bahamut285
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The main reason why people say you MUST do 100% water changes on ANY SIZED UNCYCLED TANK is because of the compounding ammonia build up.

For science sake, lets say you have a robotic betta that will not die from ammonia poisoning and it lets out 0.5G of ammonia a day, living in an uncycled 1 G tank. FOR SCIENCE SAKE.

First day: Tank is 0.5G ammonia, 0.5G water
100% water change --> 1G water, 0G ammonia
50 % water change --> 0.75G water, 0.25G ammonia

Second day: Add 0.5G more ammonia
100% tank from yesterday: Now has 0.5G ammonia, 0.5G water, another 100% change will bring it back to 0G ammonia, 1G water

50% tank from yesterday: Now has 0.75G ammonia, 0.25 water, another 50% change will bring it to 0.37G ammonia, 0.62G water

Third day: Add 0.5 G water

100% tank from yesterday: Now has 0.5G ammonia, 0.5G water, another 100% change will bring it back to 0G ammonia, 1G water (THIS IS CONSIDERED A CONSTANT DUE TO 100% CHANGES)

50% tank from yesterday: Now has 0.87G ammonia, 0.13 water.

Notice how regardless of how many 50% water changes you do, without bacteria to remove it, or removing it by your own hand, it will just continue to grow horrendously concentrated. Considering it is in ppm (parts per million), and how sensitive fish are to ammonia, your 50% water changes in an uncycled tank will quickly become ineffective.

However, as vaygirl said, sometimes it is simply not your fault, and it was probably something out of your control from the tap. This is why I always make it a good habit to test my water before a water change and after a water change before I put my fish back in (in both uncycled and cycled tanks). Just in case your pH is suddenly super different or your water company decided to dump in an extra stick of chlorine or they forgot some water softener, etc.

As for your question about getting a new betta, this is how I acclimate them out of the blue water and into their new home:
1. Get a QT tank, fill it up halfway-ish with TREATED water, let it sit for a few minutes (if it has a heater, even better)
2. Float new betta in his/her for 20-30 minutes
3. Use his/her cup to scoop very little water, let them float again for another 5-10 minutes.
4. Gently pour half of the water in the cup into a bucket (not the sink, you don't want to accidentally lose your fish DX
5. Float for 5 minutes, then scoop a little more water, 5 minutes, more water, 5 minutes. (Empty water as necessary into the bucket)
6. After feeling that the blue water is MOSTLY transparent, regular water colour, I tip the cup so that they have enough room to swim out. If they are ready the will swim out on their own, usually (in my experience at least)
7. After they are swimming around in the QT, I do 50% water changes every 10 minutes until the water is definitely clear, then I float them in their home for 20 minutes, scoop once or twice then release.

Hasn't failed me so far >_> *knocks on wood*
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Old 07-16-2011, 09:07 PM   #26 
Neil D
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If your tank is UNCYCLED, you need a 100%. generally one 50 and one 100 weekly.

If your tank is cycled, never do a 100% change. It is a worst case scenario, do not do it unless medications require it.

Acclimating them for a longer period of time is the best way to avoid shock. Good luck
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