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Old 08-04-2011, 03:14 PM   #11 
Oldfishlady
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Good, the API mater kit will help make the process easier for you....be sure and shake, bang and shake some more with the #2 nitrate reagent...it tend to settle and you will get skewed results...just a little hint.....

Anyway, the filter will be fine and may even work better since its for a Betta...is it a HOB (hang-on-back) type filter

Give the tank a good vacuum and get the substrate cleaned up of as much food that you can get or if its easier for you...dump everything and start over....doesn't matter....either way will work

Set up the tank-get it scape it the way you want it to look-fill with dechlorinated water-give the filter media a rinse and get the filter running and water up to temp 76-80F

Let it run for 24h and if you have any tiny bubble on the walls or decoration-either pop with a clean hand or net

Acclimate the Betta to both temp and chemistry by adding small amount of water from the tank to the holding container over 20-30min...Net the Betta and add to the tank....


In 10gal filtered tank-water changes of 50% with substrate vacuuming weekly and a second 50% water only based on water prams of ammonia, nitrite 0.25ppm or greater until you established nitrogen cycle......


Fish-in cycle can take 4-8 weeks...this varies

I would also recommend that you do a full test on your source water to make sure you don't have ammonia, nitrite, nitrate in the tap...

To get the true pH reading-the source water needs to degas for 24h.
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:58 PM   #12 
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The filter I use uses little suction cups to hang off the side of the tank. I just tested some tap water that I had left out last night to age (it hasn't been 24h yet so I didnt test for pH) and my nitrites and nitrates are both at 0 ppm but my ammonia is almost at 2 ppm D: I used to use some dechlorinator that would lower the ammonia levels and got rid of chlorine, but now I use this stuff: http://www.walmart.com/ip/TetraAqua-...c-Pets/3635396 and I *really* have to overdose it so it gets the ammonia down to a safe level... What water conditioner do you recommend I get before starting over with the fish-in? I heard seachem prime does pretty good, but I've read not to use dechlorinators that got rid of ammonia during a cycle...

Last edited by lemonpebbles; 08-04-2011 at 04:07 PM.
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:25 PM   #13 
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Prime is a good one to use...also the dechlorinator don't get rid of the ammonia...it changes the ammonia to ammonium that is fish safe but the plants and nitrifying bacteria can still use it for food, however, the test kit can't tell the difference in ammonia and ammonium and the ammonia readings will be skewed...this is when observation comes in....watch the fish and he will tell you......

To understand...you have 2ppm ammonia in your source water or is this water that has been treated with dechlorinator......
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:40 PM   #14 
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The readings were just plain old tap water, nothing in it. Just to be sure, I heard that ammonium is still toxic to fish in high amounts, but since the test can't tell the difference my betta will tell me when it gets too high, right? I have some Kordon AmQuel ammonia remover that also removes chlorine and chloramines. I could use that safely in my tank though because it just changes it to ammonium, right?
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Old 08-04-2011, 04:53 PM   #15 
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Something is wrong if you have 2ppm ammonia in your tap water........you need to contact your water dept right away...something is wrong.....

But first-
Test your ammonia again-re-read the direction and follow it step-by-step and read the result within the given time....this is a time sensitive product that can degrade and change over time...be sure and rinse the test tube with water only..... don't use any soap

You should google ammonia, ammonium and the products and get multi explanation from multi sources that are science based not hobbyist based so you will have a better understanding of the chemical reaction...
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:15 PM   #16 
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I'm researching everything about ammonia now, lol. This whole thing has got me scared. I always rinse my testubes with just water and I tested everything again ammonia is still almost at 2 ppm and nitrite and nitrate still at zero.....
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Old 08-04-2011, 05:21 PM   #17 
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Go to your city water supply web-site and see what their safe levels on ammonia are or if something is going on with your water supply....
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Old 08-04-2011, 06:00 PM   #18 
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I read up on everything I could find. I only found finance info on their webpage, and their phone numbers, but I'm positive my parents won't let me call the water company.... Though I did find a very recent newpaper article about how they've started more efficient water treatment with chloramine ... Quote: "that placing a mixer in the tank could significantly help prevent bacteria by ensuring the chlorine and chloramine gets into the entire water supply" but I'm not sure if thats any help..... If its not, then what can I do to treat my water?
EDIT: I just tested some brand new water straight from the faucet, not the water I had left out to age and now it reads about 0.5ppm - 1 ppm

Last edited by lemonpebbles; 08-04-2011 at 06:15 PM.
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Old 08-05-2011, 08:48 AM   #19 
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That sounds better...using Prime will help make your water fish safe....
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Old 08-05-2011, 09:33 AM   #20 
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Maybe I should jump into this thread.
My tap water reads:

pH=8.2
ammonia=0.5 ppm
nitrite=nitrate=0 ppm

Is it abnormal that I see 0.5ppm ammonia in our tap water?
Should I use Seachem or something that can remove ammonia?

However, my Diggy has been doing very well in this water for over a month and a half.

Until recently, he had been in a 1/4 gallon jar (due to me ignorantly following the Petco instruction) with 100% water change twice a week, seriously overfed (40-50 pellets everyday). I'm sure that he's been exposed to several ppm of ammonia for quite long.
Is the ammonia poisoning immediate? Or does it have long term effects?

I know I ask a lot of questions, but I really want to treat Diggy very well from now on. Thanks in advance!
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