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Old 09-05-2011, 07:16 PM   #21 
Draug Isilme
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1fish2fish: Oh yeah, and if I do get ammonia to help my new tank cycle, could I ask you questions if I have any trouble with it? Also, how much fish food would I need to put in the tank in order for it to cycle properly?
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Old 09-05-2011, 08:12 PM   #22 
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For a 1.5 I'd put 1 and 1/2 tsp of salt in. You could probably even round it up to 2tsp with no issues.

As for the cycle feel free to ask questions :) I'm always ready to help out and I know the first time you cycle a tank it can seem crazy. Make sure you have a good test kit before you start. They're expensive (around $30) but they're a life saver when it comes to a cycle.

With the fish food you usually add about a pinch daily until you get your ammonia spike and then keep adding it until your levels return to 0. I don't like that method because the thought of rotting food in the tank icks me out. Plus it totally looks gross compared to clear ammonia ;p
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Old 09-05-2011, 09:28 PM   #23 
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Alrighty ^.^
I actually browsed around and found a website that was having a sale on their stuff and bought a liquid masters testing kit around $18 ^.^ Everything works out great, but I'm questionable about the ammonia tester -.- At first it had a reading of 0 ammonia when I first tried out the kit, but now everytime, even with 100% water changes, it reads out around .5 or 1ppm x.x
I keep re-reading the instructions over and over to make sure I'm doing it right, and I'm assuming I am... I rinse out the tubes everytime and let them dry before re-using.. is there a better method of cleaning them? I've never had any problems with the water conditioner I'm using... Maybe I should get a different conditioner or one that neutralizes ammonia specifically? Although that's what this conditioner is supposed to do, but like I said, the test, no matter when I test the water now (before and after changes) it still comes out as .5/1ppm (kinda hard to tell with the colors being so close). I tested my regular tap water, too, and that was after the tests kept coming up the same.. and of course, it says the same thing... Maybe the ammonia test is jank, but everything else seems to be working just fine.
But yeah, the cycling thing. I'm not absolutely sure I'd be able to use pure ammonia at the moment. I don't like the idea of rotting fish food in my tank either x.x bleh.. but I've got enough of it, so I'll give it a try.
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Old 09-05-2011, 10:06 PM   #24 
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Also, I just looked up expiration dates on the testing kit, which apparently they're good for 2-4 years depending.. The thing I read said that the last 4 digits were the month and year it was made, and all of them were made from August-October of last year.. so I'm assuming it's not an expiration issue, unless I'm wrong on this.

Edit: I just saw this and this is a quote from a different form:

"02-03-2011, 2:20 AM
In response to your question, each reagent bottle has a Lot # printed on
the bottle. The last four digits are the month and year of manufacture.
Example: Lot # 28A0102. This is a pH reagent manufactured in January of
2002. Pond Care Wide Range pH, Ammonia, High Range pH, Nitrate,
Phosphate, Copper, Calcium and GH all last for three years. Nitrite and
KH will last for four years. Freshwater pH(low range) and Pond Care Salt
Level will last for five years. I would not trust these kits after they
have expired."

Does anyone know if this is accurate?
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Old 09-05-2011, 11:36 PM   #25 
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I did a few tests just now, and I think it comes down to me not putting enough in the water. I'm bad at math so I might've miscalculated how much I'm supposed to put in there 'cause I originally thought I was putting too much. The stuff I'm using is 4 tsp for every 10g, and what I originally been putting is 1 dram which is about 3/4 of a tsp so I'm assuming that's right.. but since I thought my math was off, I started putting less, and that's when my tests started acting funky x.x Although now I'm treating the water in jugs first before I add them to the water. This time I did 1 dram and poored over a half in the 1g, and the rest in what was about 1/5 a gallon of water... still came up the same so maybe I still didn't put enough(?)
Essentially what I did this time to get 0ppm for the ammonia was add 3 drops of my conditioner to the 5mL of tap water, turned it several times to mix, and then tested it... So.. it seems to work just fine.
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:02 AM   #26 
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How can I tell if my fish has parasites, as well? I've been seeing small, white, stringy, sort of fuzzy-ish things floating around my tank from time to time when I move it. I don't have any live plants in it at the moment, so I know it's not coming from that. I also remember someone mentioning that those things are parasites being pooped out. He doesn't seem to be rubbing against anything, and his appetite hasn't changed- he always acts like he's starving when I feed him, which is twice a day and an occasional treat or two of freeze-dried bloodworms... So he's eating plenty.. and of course since he always seems to be starving, that makes me wonder if it's internal parasites
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Old 09-06-2011, 11:21 AM   #27 
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Oh, I'm kind of confused on how to go about the treatment. Someone said 82 degrees on here, but looking back to the sticky it says to treat like you would ick, which is at 85 degrees. I just lowered my heaters temperature down to 78 degrees 'cause I had it set exactly at 82 degrees and seemed to be doing great for the 7-8 hours I was watching it, and over night it went from 83 to 86. I thought that was too much, so yeah.. I guess I'm gonna have to take the tank back down and change the temperature again x.x
Plus I know I'm supposed to do 100% daily water changes while treating him, but it conflicts with what this person wrote in the sticky, which is "add 1tsp/gal aquarium salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Perform daily 100% water changes." So... wouldn't that be change the water every other day so it can still maintain 3x's the dosage of salt? >.> Otherwise, I wait after it's been a full day and it only has 2x's the normal concentration each time I have to change the water...
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