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Old 11-18-2011, 02:13 PM   #1 
mjoy79
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Unhappy Question about cycling

I have 2 10G tanks and 1 20G tank... and I have never cycled any of them. I know this is probably bad....I've been reading up on cycling and honestly my eyes start crossing when I do.
I've been considering re-vamping my sorority (moving them to the 20G long and adding a few new girls) but thought if I did I should really consider cycling the tank. Plus I would need to divide the 10G into 3 sections for the 3 guys that are in the 20G now.
I've had the sorority going in their 10G since mid-august so its not brand spanking new. Would I need to cycle this tank?
I have Hurley in the other 10G but only for about a month or so now.
I've had the 20G long for about 2 months I would guess.
I'm just wondering if those tanks are ticking time-bombs for future illness since I haven't cycled them. All the bettas in those tanks are doing fine now but I just have to wonder.... thanks for your help!!
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Old 11-18-2011, 02:21 PM   #2 
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If these tank are filtered and have been running for that long...the nitrogen cycle may be established.....unless you have been doing total scrub downs and 100% water changes...do you have a test kit....if so post your numbers and type of test product you are using.....if not, can you get the water tested at the pet shop and we could tell you if the nitrogen cycle is established or not.....also, any live plants, type of filters, additives used and water change schedules.....

The nitrogen cycle sounds a lot more confusing and difficult than it really is......it will happen on its own with time in a filtered system...all the good bacteria need is a food source, surface area and oxygen....

Last edited by Oldfishlady; 11-18-2011 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 11-18-2011, 10:14 PM   #3 
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All tanks are filtered. I did 1 100% change on the sorority and 1 on the 20G (when I moved it).
Ammonia in the sorority = .25
in Hurley's 10G = between 0-.25
in 20G = same between 0-.25

Nitrates
10G sorority =0
10G Hurley = 10 ? (10 and 20 color looks the same to me!)
20G = between 0-5
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Old 11-19-2011, 09:38 AM   #4 
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What kind of test product are you using....

I would make 50% water only changes with any reading of 0.25ppm ammonia and nitrite........ with the nitrate reading-this means you are getting close to completion-you want nitrate 5-10ppm- 20ppm or under is best....any live plants....

What are the readings on the source water without additives....
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:42 AM   #5 
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Sorry for the delay -
I am using API test kits for Ammonia and Nitrates
Tap water only
Nitrate = 5
Ammonia = .25-.50

I have a PH tester kit as well but I've misplaced the card. Would PH readings help too?
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:11 PM   #6 
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Good that you are using the liquid reagent type test products...one hint on the nitrate.....be sure and shake, shake, bang on the table and shake some more with the #2 reagent bottle-it tend to settle and can cause skewed results-also-follow the directions to the "T" in regard to how long, hard you shake the test tube between adding the #1 and #2 reagents...the nitrate test can have a high user error sometimes...

Yes, pH is helpful since pH can have an impact on the nitrogen cycle process

To understand-you are showing both ammonia and nitrate in your source water-direct from the tap without any additives used-like dechlorinator....correct...

What type of dechlorinator are you using....
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