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Old 12-28-2011, 11:41 AM   #11 
4mb3rNich0l3
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Originally Posted by tpocicat View Post
So far, I've had the best luck with Petco's bookcase aquarium. It comes with a filter that can be slowed way down. It also has a plastic liner below the light fixture to keep the humidity up. Added a few plants, my favorite is Java Moss for insuforia, and an adjustable heater, and I'm ready to go. Sorry no picture.
How much does this usually cost? I only know of ONE Petco around me lol. Lets hope they have it, otherwise I may have to try and order it online
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Old 12-28-2011, 11:53 AM   #12 
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I looked it up and online it's $40.99. I tried to post a picture of it, but for some reason, it wouldn't work.
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Old 12-31-2011, 03:09 PM   #13 
4mb3rNich0l3
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Would the fry eat frozen baby brine shrimp? I just assumed it had to be live foods :). I have no breeders around me so id have to order online unless I figured out the Infursoria thing haha :)
Could I use those 6qt sterilite tubs for the fry when its time to jar them? Or would they need something a bit smaller?
OH and I have some reptile heat cable with a dimmer. Would this work to heat up fry containers? If most of the fry live(assuming I can be lucky enough for a successful breeding) I will have to do a mixture of methods lol. The tub with water and heater in it as well.

BUT I have a glass container I can put the female in already though. Just need the spare tank, heater, IAL, and whatnot lol. I have awhile before ill even have my breeders here so I have plenty of time to get everything :)
Any answers? :)
ALSO whats the best size tank to use? 10 gallon? or can it be bigger?
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Old 12-31-2011, 04:15 PM   #14 
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I use a natural method in 10gal soil based heavy planted full to the top with water-no filters, oak leaf tannins, temp 80F, floating water lettuce is usually used for the nest, lots of common snails and red cherry shrimp are also kept in the spawning tank as part of the ecosystem.

I condition with mosquito larva and daphnia-I feed the pair before, during and after. I turn my lights off at the normal time-since fish have a sense organ called the lateral line to help in darkness.

Depending on my goal-I either remove the female once spawning is complete or if I want multi spawns I leave the female and either harvest the eggs/nest to artificial hatch to get another spawn usually in 2-3 days or I leave the eggs/nest and let them spawn again and remove the fry as they grow to grow out tanks...Some I will do 2 females but this is more advanced....

Once the fry are free swimming I watch their tummies for signs of food-since I use a natural method in mature systems I may not need to feed for a week or more depending on fry numbers and their tummies-my systems create lots of microorganisms for the fry from the plants, snails and freshwater critters I have been adding over the months that naturally reproduce.

Once I do start adding food-I have 2 BBS hatcheries going 24h apart-Its important to feed newly hatched BBS with their yolk sac intact for best nutrition especially if BBS is the only food source you plan to feed-Once the BBS go through the first molt they will be limited on HUFA and you will have more shells-the shells when eaten in large amounts can cause health issues especially in the swim bladder and you will see belly sliders, fallers...etc...HUFA deficiencies you can have twirling, health issues and sudden death.

It a good idea to rinse the BBS in fresh water before feeding due to the high bacteria in the hatchery water.

Heat and humidity over the water is also important-when the fry start to develop and use their labyrinth organ in the 2-5week range-if the air above the water is too cool and dry can cause development issue and you can see swimming issues and even sudden death/mass die off-I like to use plastic veggie wrap over the top of my tank to help retain heat/humidity

Once I start adding food-I start making water changes-this varies-while the natural system will use up the DOC's-they never leave per se but get recycled by the plants-the stunting hormone is still present and needs to be diluted with water changes.

I have more pic in my album...but here are a few-





This is a newly setup NPT that I will use for spawning in a few months-not mature enough just yet-and it still has a filter that will be removed before spawning.


I also do outside spawns in the summer using 5gal buckets and other things that hold water...some pic in my ablum.
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Old 12-31-2011, 09:56 PM   #15 
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WOW OFL, thats looks beautiful :)

My setup looks basically the same as Vilmarisv's haha. Although, I recently tried the method by Victoria using simple walmart tubs instead. Surprisingly, extremely effective and worked very well. I was impressed! http://bettysplendens.com/articles/p...?articleid=723
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:06 PM   #16 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mb3rNich0l3 View Post
Would the fry eat frozen baby brine shrimp? I just assumed it had to be live foods :). I have no breeders around me so id have to order online unless I figured out the Infursoria thing haha :)
Could I use those 6qt sterilite tubs for the fry when its time to jar them? Or would they need something a bit smaller?
OH and I have some reptile heat cable with a dimmer. Would this work to heat up fry containers? If most of the fry live(assuming I can be lucky enough for a successful breeding) I will have to do a mixture of methods lol. The tub with water and heater in it as well.

BUT I have a glass container I can put the female in already though. Just need the spare tank, heater, IAL, and whatnot lol. I have awhile before ill even have my breeders here so I have plenty of time to get everything :)
Really no such ting as to big for a jarred fry as long as you can keep them warm.
And possibly, as long as you can keep the cable on so the temp doesn't drop.

If you don't start the fry on live food then they'll readily accept dead/dry most of the time.
I've always used non-hatching decap bse instead of hatching live brine shrimp and haven't had an issue.
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:08 PM   #17 
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Really no such ting as to big for a jarred fry as long as you can keep them warm.
And possibly, as long as you can keep the cable on so the temp doesn't drop.

If you don't start the fry on live food then they'll readily accept dead/dry most of the time.
I've always used non-hatching decap bse instead of hatching live brine shrimp and haven't had an issue.
Ok thanks so much for the reply :) Great to know!
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