IMPORANT: Watch For These Disease Signs

[Coppermoon]

Originally Posted by AyalaCookiejar

There's also different strains. Not all fish with Mycos even develop this rapid fin deterioration. There's so many different symptoms of this disease that its really almost impossible to identify unless the bodies are sent in for testing.

I'll also point out that there must be something else that can cause these symptoms because I have seen two members here with fish whose fins deteriorated rapidly like this and they actually fully recovered and their fins grew back completely.

Mycos has no cure so I highly doubt that that was caused by it. I know the one fish developed it right after a water change so it might've been an issue with the water?

But then again, Mycos is also a wasting disease that develops over a long period of time and can be carried by a fish for years before killing them.

I am not posting this to argue, so let me tell you what my fish did up to they day they died. I had this crap in my fish room since October 2010. They ate, they bred, they got fin rot and then columnaris (treated for finrot/columnaris when the gray patches developed), they pineconed, they either died, or I put down. They were still eating even when pineconed, although I didn't feed them nearly as much. I know dropsy is a symptom, so I was attempting every treatment (giving time to see if they were working) that I could find online for this aggressive fin rot I was having.

I sent 5 very healthy fish to the lab. What was wrong with them: one was missing a tail, one was missing a dorsal, one was just starting with the fin rot, one was a very ragged dt, one had no face. These fish were about 9 months old. I had to starve them to clean their guts out for the shipping. Faceless one was dead, so he didn't get examined. The rest arrived happy and "healthy". Each of the 4 living was riddled with the granulomias (not sure how to spell it, and sp ck doesn't know).

I say treat a fish for fin rot if THAT is what is presents. Treat it for Columnaris if that is what it presents. BUT after a 7-10 days, if there is no improvement OR the fish develops it again shortly after removing from medication....or the fish is worse during and after treatment....then assume it is mycos and destroy the fish......or let it live out it's life...up to the owner. I choose to destroy. I put my dog down after I found out he had cancer. I have one with "fin rot"...one of his brothers came to me with broken rays....he has 4 more days to improve or he is a gonner. I WONT go through this again. HE is the last one I mess with before I leave my fish room, and I immediately go wash my hands in almost scalding water and antibacterial soap.

I don't want everyone to think that their fish have mycos, but BE AWARE of your fish. Don't cross contaminate. Keep things clean.

[jadaBlu]

I don't believe that Thai breeders will not give you myco bacteria. I have been told some pet fish start off shipping from Thailand. My local petco gets fish from San diego (I had the bill in my hand) that individual is probably is just a transhipper. Unfortunately, I didn't l know at the time to take down the name. I asked where they came from because I read fishkeepers can get this and I did not yet know what it did to fish to scale I do now. I reas this:

Prevention:

There is not a 100% proven way to prevent Aquarium Fish Tuberculosis (as with most pathogens), however based on my own observations going back to 1977 (working at a Pet Store Fish department and then my aquarium maintenance company), I definitely noticed patterns. Emails from customers and questions I see asked in forums and elsewhere have added to this same pattern.

One pattern is what I noted earlier and that is Bettas and Gouramis have a higher incidence of both suspected and proven cases of Mycobacterium marinum Tuberculosis infections.
I also noted that certain vendors (wholesale suppliers) would have a higher incidence of TB infected fish, so avoiding the purchase of fish from places that you have suspected TB on numerous occasions may also be helpful; this said, do NOT write off a retailer or vendor based on 1 or 2 suspicions of Fish TB, as it may have been another disease pathogen, as well frankly no vendor/retailer is perfect!.

Also be careful with Betta shows or similar, as I believe that this is both a major stressor AND infection point. As for procedure you can do to prevent Fish TB infections; there are many.
The most obvious is as stress free an aquatic environment as possible since stress due to many factors seems to be a major factor based on my work and research. This includes stress from water conditions and tank mates.
Changing water regularly, maintaining a stable pH & KH, near 0 ammonia (NH3) and nitrites, a balanced Redox and ESSENTIAL aquarium positive mineral ions.

It came from here: http://www.aquarium-pond-answers.com...erculosis.html

There are many good articles on fish disease with some good advice although abiet I have spotted a few errors like adding salt to a bath for fish with dropsy. Salt is the last thing any being with likely kidney disease is needing.

[LittleBlueFishlets]

Ddicioccio:

Here are links to two University veterinary labs that offer testing:

• University of Florida: http://tal.ifas.ufl.edu/services_available.htm
• University of Arizona: http://cals.arizona.edu/vdl/index.php?ID=19

You may want to find a university veterinary college close to your home, and contact them. This would allow you to get samples there quickly, before they degrade.

The method of preservation is going to depend on the testing that you want done....

Ideally, you'd send the sick fish (while still alive) to the lab for testing. This way, they can examine the tissues AND obtain bacterial cultures. This is what the University of Florida recommends: link is here.

If you can't send the live fish, then, according to the Merck Veterinary Manual. Link is here.:

• If you want tissues or internal organs examined: Preserve in a way to keep the tissues or organs intact. --> Put in formalin, refrigerate, ships ASAP. Test samples as soon as possible, since they'll degrade over time. (Do NOT freeze, since this can damage tissues/organs.)
• If you want to have a bacterial culture done: Preserve in a way to keep the bacteria viable (alive). --> Refrigerate only, and ship ASAP. Do not freeze or use preservatives, since this can kill some bacteria.

Here is a good summary from the University of Arizona. Link is here.:
"Proper selection and preservation of samples for bacteriologic analysis is essential for accurate and efficient diagnosis. Postmortem autolysis of tissues is the most common cause of interference with bacteriologic diagnosis. Tissues should be very fresh, collected aseptically and immediately refrigerated, and sent by overnight transport. When prompt submission is not possible, freezing is acceptable for most types of bacteriologic tests, although they are often unsuitable for other microbiologic or pathologic testing. A second cause of interference is collection of samples too late in the course of the disease or after the initiation of antibiotic therapy. Submit generous samples of tissue, exudates, or feces. Avoid the use of swabs when fresh tissues or exudates are available. The prompt collection of specimens with minimal exposure to air is particularly important for anaerobic culture.

Tissue samples should be submitted in separate containers and properly identified. Adequate refrigeration in insulated containers with sufficient numbers of ice packs is essential for shipping specimens."

[nmmuller]

Hi,
I'm new to this site but I was wondering if anyone could help me with my betta, barnabus. He seems to be in good health (swims around and eats like crazy) but he just gained this huge white patch over his eye and mouth area. Assuming that it was a fungal infection, I treated his 1 gallon tank with "bettafix." The condition of the spot hasn't changed and I was wondering if he's even sick at all!!

Thanks in advance!!

http://www.bettafish.com/album.php?a...ictureid=54554
http://www.bettafish.com/album.php?a...ictureid=54546

[Coppermoon]

Originally Posted by nmmuller

Hi,
I'm new to this site but I was wondering if anyone could help me with my betta, barnabus. He seems to be in good health (swims around and eats like crazy) but he just gained this huge white patch over his eye and mouth area. Assuming that it was a fungal infection, I treated his 1 gallon tank with "bettafix." The condition of the spot hasn't changed and I was wondering if he's even sick at all!!

Thanks in advance!!

http://www.bettafish.com/album.php?a...ictureid=54554
http://www.bettafish.com/album.php?a...ictureid=54546

Those are links to my profile...or at least that is what comes up...lol.

Don't use bettafix...it is oil based and actually can harm betta in the long run. Fungus cure or fungus rid are good choices if it is a true fungus.

Follow the full treatment on the meds exactly.

Good luck :D

Lori