What size is your tank? 10 Gallon
What temperature is your tank? 78
Does your tank have a filter? Yes
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?No
Is your tank heated?Yes
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? None
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Pellets
How often do you feed your betta fish? twice daily
How often do you perform a water change? Daily 10% (new tank)
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? 10%
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? start right, start zyme, and did prime tonight just incase I had ammonia.
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?
Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed?
How has your betta fish's behavior changed?
When did you start noticing the symptoms? Tonight
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how?
Does your fish have any history of being ill? No
How old is your fish (approximately)? I have no idea
He's only been in this tank since yesterday. (The red one is in a different tank and doing well, but both tanks have the same source water and treatments.)
Ok. Sounds like you are trying to cycle the tank with fish in it. I am sorry I am not knowledgeable about cycling tank or the Start Right or Start Zyme stuff. Hopefully someone else can throw some light in for you. But I have read that some people do not recommend these stuff in a bottle to cycle a tank. From the look of your betta, something is definitely off with the chemistry of the water. What I would suggest for now is to QT them in a small container with just clean preconditioned water and probably want to float them in the big tank to maintain some temperature.
I don't see the ammonia/nitrates/nitrites parameters filled out. Did you do a test just now? You definitely need to know where your cycle is at so you can change the amount of water accordingly. I just want to double check, but are you sure your tank is 10 gallon? Sorry, may be the tank they are in now is 10 gallon, and not the one in the photo? Or may be your bettas are really big size? As I saw two bettas in the tank, does that mean now they each have their own tank? Sorry, just need some clarification.
p/s: ok. I browsed through quickly your previous posts and saw about the cycling tank, test kits etc. and that now each one has then own 10 gal tank. Hopefully those helpful members can help you with this issue.
Last edited by earthworm88; 02-06-2012 at 03:57 AM.
Yeah two different tanks and the ammonia level test just came back still at 0. Though now his color is back. This fish seems to be very temperamental. He got a deep white stress stripe whenever I moved him to go to the big tank. I actually think it is me causing the stress. I thought I was going to have to wait it out but even it left within of 10 minutes being in the tank while being floated. Just now though went to check on him again, when he didn't notice me at the tank he was a very deep blue with little red or paleness and was being very active. Then as soon as he saw me watching him it's like the color flushed from him and he got real still just looking at me.
Here is another shot of him sorry for the bad quality on this but now he is racing about the tank and swimming whichever way like he is playing around.
Is it possible you are really scary looking? Just kidding!! Ok. sorry about the parameters, my eyes were playing tricks on me. I see all is in good order at this point. You are right to think he may be temperamental or easily stressed. Each betta has their own personality and it takes time to figure out what they are. It will probably take time for him to warm up to you, I guess for the time being, don't make faces at him. As long as he is eating well, and moving about, he should be ok. Just give him some more time to adjust. Love his blue!
Hello Freemike, the fish definitely looks better. Cycling a tank takes awhile, read somewhere that it's at least 2 weeks for beneficial bacteria to properly colonize. I use a product called Microbe-lift...supposed to decrease cycling time by adding good bacteria. You also could try aquarium salt. Should help w/stress and a lot of illnesses, highly recommended. Instructions on pkg, I think it's one tablespoon per 5gallons. Increase temp to 80-82F with use of aquarium salt. Make sure he has plenty of hiding places, too. I would probably do salt/heat treatment even though he is looking better.
I am sorry but I have to disagree with salt treatment unless the situation is called for. I would reserve aquarium salt for confirmed infections. If the tank is cycled properly and all the water parameters are in safe ranges, then the fish already has a healthy environment to be in. So prophylactic salt solution which could desensitize the fish is probably not something I would do.
Have to agree to NO on AQ salt- it's not needed, and over use/exposure can cause a lot of health problems, not to mention resistances to it from the fish and the bad bacteria.
It looks to be stress.. which in that case I would remove him from the tank and keep him in a QT tank while the main tank is cycling- just do weekly water changes of a 100% while in QT.
This is the least-preferred method of cycling. Essentially, it involves using live fish as your ammonia source. The benefit to this method is that you get to stock the tank immediately, but the problems associated with this method far outweigh that single benefit. Fish recommended for the "fish-in" cycle are usually hardy species but aren't always fish that you want to keep in your tank on a long-term basis so you have to deal with the hassle of removing them once the cycle is complete. Second, water changes must be performed on a regular basis (sometimes daily or even more often) in order to keep ammonia and nitrite levels low so that the fish you're using to cycle don't die. Finally, and most importantly, cycling with fish can be stressful or even deadly to the fish you're using to cycle. Unfortunately, many new aquarists are unaware of the aquarium cycle or its importance and are thus essentially forced to do a "fish-in" cycle. When using this method, you should only choose hardy species (zebra danios are a popular choice) in small numbers. Monitor ammonia and nitrite levels daily, performing water changes with a good water conditioner that neutralizes ammonia and nitrite (Seachem's Prime is a good choice) whenever ammonia or nitrite levels exceed 0.5 ppm (0.25ppm is an even safer number). After a few days the ammonia should spike. As the Nitrosomonas bacteria increase in number the ammonia level will start to peter out, replaced by nitrite. The Nitrospira bacteria will then start to grow but since these reproduce more slowly than Nitrosomonas, the nitrite portion of the cycle can take a deal longer than the ammonia portion. Eventually both ammonia and nitrite will continually test at 0 ppm and you'll start seeing a reading for nitrate. At this point the cycle is complete. It's usually best to wait a bit just to make sure there aren't any straggling ammonia or nitrite spikes but after some time you can begin adding more fish to the tank, a few fish every week or two until the tank is stocked. The most important part of the "fish-in" cycle are the ammonia and nitrite tests and the water changes that are needed whenever these readings rear their ugly heads."
Thanks for the information...did not think of resistance and/or desensitization. Another reason why I love this forum; when a group discusses a topic, New and different ways to see the issue are presented. Now, when I look at the issue/concern from this perspective, using Prime would help w/ lingering signs/symptoms of stress without resistance/desensitization issues. I think the betta is probably still suffering from stress even though he is looking better. It also doesn't sound like the tank was cycled completely, so he should be put in QT until it is.