Originally Posted by xrein
@indjo: what do you mean in "non worm live foods?"
but i thought, live foods are best for conditioning a pair??
im feeding mine tubidex worms
If you plan to breed her, non fatty food (all worms contain more fat-tubifex, I think, is the worst) is better. Fat will clog (?) her egg passage. Clogged egg passage means longer process and harder for her to drop eggs during embrace. Try to avoid tubifex until the last few days.
Fatty food is good for fry - makes them grow faster but their fins will be rather small. This is most evident in HMs. I never get fins grow 2/3rd of body length if I feed tubifex for too long.
Non worm such as mosq. larva, fruit fly, daphnia, shrimp, etc. are much better. They provide the needed protein without making your females too fat.
I have never paid much attention to this until recently - now that I'm working with PK's which has thicker body structure. Too much feeding (I mainly feed frozen BW) will make my pair too fat. The male will be too fat to embrace properly and the female will have a hard time releasing her eggs. Consequently less eggs get fertilized.
All you can do is wait. I would give them a week. If they remain as they were - no change in behavior, I cancel and take them out (just took out 3 such pairs). But another pair - I put together a few days ago. The female didn't look interested at all after I released her (she was very actively flirting before released). All she did was hide though she remained colored with bars. I was going to take them out this afternoon but around noon they began to embrace.
Basically I'm trying to point out that you need to learn to use your better judgement because you're there to see what is actually happening. Example: sometimes I would let the female get beaten badly because I know she can take it. But I would NEVER advise that because I can't see your girl, how she's swimming, her behavior, etc. That's what experience teaches us - judgement.
Mustard gas patterns in dragons IMO is easier than non dragons. For some reason dragons can have a blend of two different colors that doesn't usually show in regular scale. SO getting .... say a copper, blue, green etc. with yellow/orange fins wouldn't be that hard. Keep crossing the colors of your desire and you will come up with them in 2 or 3 generations - given that you pair the right couple.... the ones with compatible genes to mutate in a MG pattern.
I mostly keep the male in the breeding tank as I age the tank and water which could take 3-4 weeks (I don't want mosq. laying eggs in them). IMO territorial issues will be the same as when they're put in at the same time.... just my way of breeding