My betta was fine until last night. I saw he had a white upper lip and i was like wtf. So this morning it was all over his head. I cleaned the tank almost entirely and isolated him from the other fish.
A neon tetra had died the day it showed up on him. I wonder if that could have any effect? Either way he's in isolation and it's still spreading. Do I need to get him some medicine. He was eating fine but now he's not and I'd like him to recover.
Thanks in advance. If I need to post pictures I can.
To me it sounds like a fungus of some sort. Is it white, and fuzzy?
Here is a bit more info on fungal diseases
White, or fuzzy growths on the outside of fish
Fish has become less active
Patches of white
This disease is very common with stressed fish and is cured with Higher levels of added salt, easing the temperature within the tank to 80 will also help as it will speed up the life cycle of the disease. If the disease progresses then invest in a high quality fungus treatment to help aid the treatment, if that doesn't work then I highly suggest that you either euthanize the fish or heavily Medicate, sterilize, and heat the temp even higher within the tank. Don't Isolate him when treating as the other fish probably have the disease too.
There are many factors to what causes this specific disease but it's similar to many others.
-poor water quality, like high ammonia, and nitrites along with unecxeptable Amounts of nitrates
-stressful tankmates and constant nipping
-being battered around by flow
-not acclimated properly
Are all main factors to the disease as they all lead to a lowered immune system which leaves all fish helpless towards all diseases
your betta may have a sickness called "ICK" this is a bunch of dead cells that can form on the head, fins, virtually anywhere. you can heal this by adding just a pinch of table salt to the water he is in, dont add any more or try to stir it just let him sit for about day and reply if he has gotton better or wrose please send a picture of him noe and after
Ick would look like your fish was covered in salt.
Is it fuzzy? It may be a fungus OR it may be columnaris. Both have "white fuzzies". Columnaris is contageous and is a massive pain in the butt to deal with.
DO NOT ADD TABLE SALT. You want AQUARIUM SALT, which is NOT the same thing. Till we figure out, what, excatly the fish has..I suggest starting him out with fresh, conditioned water and 1 teaspoon of AQUARIUM SALT. AQ salt is recommended as part of a treatment for columnaris and fungus.
Take a 1 gallon jug, add in conditioned water and then add in 1 teaspoon of AQUARIUM SALT. Shake the jug then wait for the salt to disolve. Then add the water to his tank and slowly acclimate him to the new salt water. I usually then fill up the jug and add in salt for the next days water change, that way the water from old tank and new will be about the same (im assuming the quarentine tank is not heated)
Do you have a clear picture? and can you answer these:
What size is your tank?
What temperature is your tank?
Does your tank have a filter?
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?
Is your tank heated?
What tank mates does your betta fish live with?
What type of food do you feed your betta fish?
How often do you feed your betta fish?
How often do you perform a water change?
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change?
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change?
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?
Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed?
How has your betta fish's behavior changed?
When did you start noticing the symptoms?
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how?
Does your fish have any history of being ill?
How old is your fish (approximately)?
•Symptoms: White cottony like patches on its body or head, Lethargic, Not eating, Clamped Fins, Pale Colors
•Treatment: Conservative: Lower temperature below 76* F and treat with Aq.Salt at 1 tsp/gal. Increase water changes to 100% daily. Replace accurate amount of salt following water changes. Never continue salt treatments for more than 10 days. Medication: If Conservative treatment is ineffective after 10 days or you see the fungus spread rapidly during the course of conservative treatment, move to medication. Add “Fungus Eliminator” by Jungle, API Erythromycin, API Fungus Cure, API Triple Sulfa, OR Mardel’s Maracyn II. Change water every day and add a new dose of the same medication. Continue until all fungus has disappeared.
•Symptoms: White spots on mouth, edges of scales and fins, Cottony Growth that eats away at the mouth, Fins rapidly disingrate, starting at the edges
Gray areas around head and gills, As the disease progresses the gray lesions may change in color to yellow/brown/red, Lesions often occur in front of the dorsal causing a “saddleback” appearance, Lethargic, Loss of appetite, Clamped, Gasping for air
•Treatment: There are 2 versions of Columnaris: chronic and acute. Chronic Columnaris can take days to progress while acute can kill within a day. It is contagious so isolate sick fish. If more than one fish shows symptoms then treat the entire tank. Perform daily 100% water change in small tanks or ¾ water change in larger tanks. Make sure to clean the gravel. Treat with Aq.Salt: add 1 tsp/gal Aquarium Salt 3 times, 12 hours apart so that you end up with 3 times the normal concentration. Do NOT raise the temperature as it thrives in temps over 85*F, however, lowering the temperature does not seem to help fight it. Combine salt treatment with Mardel’s Coppersafe, Maracyn I & II, API Erythromycin, OR API Triple Sulfa, combined with Jungle’s Fungus Eliminator (if possible).
Well I just got back from the store to find a bunch of posts. I put an ick treatment and some aquarium salt in his quarantine tank (it's only a gallon so I didn't add much). I'm keeping an eye on the other tank as well since he did have tank mates.
I'll get a picture tonight or tomorrow. Hoping he gets better.
His normal tank is 5 gallons with a heater always at 80 degrees with plenty of live plants. I do a 80% water change weekly because I kinda suck at using the gravel vac and end up sucking up a ton of water. >_< Luckily I keep a large bucket on hand of treated water for immediate replacement.
Aq salt as tiki said. Also, keep the temp at about 75 degrees. With any of the causes of evil fuzzies heat will make it flourish. You don't want to go too cold to make the fish more susceptible, but too warm and the disease will just explode.
I'm hesitant to suggest upping his dosage too much, it looks different from what I've seen before. Usually columnarious attacks injured tissue. And it doesn't look uh, fuzzy, it looks filmy, like what I'd think slime coat would look like when it's shedding.
I have no idea what is in that ick treatment, but that wouldn't be the issue here. I've asked a friend to take a look, in case she spots something I've missed.