10g Stocking Check - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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10g Stocking Check

I fell absolutely in love with cory cats, and I'm upgrading my betta to a 10g to be able to have a small shoal of them. My question is, I used AqAdvisor and it seems like I can also squeeze in some chili rasboras, which I happen to also love. I plan for the tank to be well planted, and of course it'll depend on whether my betta reacts well to tankmates, but does a shoal of 6 cories (false julii most likely if I can't find salt-and-pepper), 6 chili/mosquito rasboras, and a betta sound horribly overstocked? I'm okay doing twice-weekly water changes to keep up the parameters, that doesn't bother me, but I want to be fair to the fish of course.


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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:26 PM
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I don't think that would be greatly overstocked. All my community tanks have been overstocked. The key to having overstocked tanks is to have lots of plants for hides, and filtration. With a 10 gal. overstock I would filter at least 150 Gallons per hour. That would be between a filter for a 20 or 30 gal. tank. Your water changes would be a good 25% per week with this kind of filtration.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 04:53 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure how fast the filter I'd use is, but it's rated for up to 25g so I'm assuming that would work okay. And I definitely hope to fill the tank with lots of plants & hiding places! Fake plants mixed in with real, until I can get the real ones to really take off, most likely, and an assortment of terracotta pots & driftwood for the bottom. 25% changes sounds great since that's what I aim for anyway, so no problem there either.


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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-24-2019, 09:09 PM
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I look at stocking by levels: Upper, Middle and Bottom.

Is the Upper level overcrowded with only one Betta? No

Is the Middle level crowded with 7-10 Rasbora? No

Is the Bottom level crowded with 6 "normal" sized Cory? No

So, you can easily add 7-10 Rasbora to your current plan. If you can find Habrosus Cory (which are "dwarf"), you can add 6-10 of them, too.

Add the Cory first. Float the bag in a darkened tank and leave the tank lights off for at least an hour after release. Most people make a huge mistake by floating new residents in a Betta tank is full light. This can frustrate the Betta and build aggression. By leaving the lights off you all all denizens to settle in quietly instead of in an uproar.

FWIW, I dose SeaChem Stability for a couple of days when I add new fish to an existing, cycled tank filter. This helps the nitrifying bacteria compensate for the added bioload. I only buy online so I can easily add 30+ fish at a time. Never had a cycle crash or minicycle.

I also overfilter; however, I do so by running two filters in each tank. In my 20 long w/o a divider, I run two filters rated for 25 gallons+. With the divider three. This is particularly helpful if I need to start up a new tank or a filter conks out.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Sounds good, thanks for your advice! Now I'm really excited about building this tank. :D


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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:41 PM
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Forgot to say the reason I suggest the Cory first: I have found it is easier on the Betta to add lower-level fish first.

Oh, and I didn't mean the Habrosus in addition to the normals; but instead that you can add more than six.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 03:01 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting! I can see how that makes sense, since bettas are more surface dwellers. And no worries, I knew what you meant- I wouldn't try and jam two shoals of cories in a 10g, that would definitely be unfair to the fish. :3


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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rana View Post
Interesting! I can see how that makes sense, since bettas are more surface dwellers. And no worries, I knew what you meant- I wouldn't try and jam two shoals of cories in a 10g, that would definitely be unfair to the fish. :3
I figured you knew better. But you never can tell about someone else reading.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-29-2019, 05:15 AM
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Sorry to rain on your parade but IMHO I don't think this is an ideal setup for such a small tank. I recommend a 15 or 20 gallon for these fish. I own all of the species you mentioned and currently keep a large shoal of Cory's (false julii, panda, C. Leucomelas, and dwarf Cory's, with a dozen Rasboras in a 37 gallon. And I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 20 gallon for Cory's. I also own Bettas and they each showed signs of stress when cohabitating in my community tanks so they each live happily in their own tanks now. I also don't agree that they are strictly upper level fish. I know mine like to explore upper, middle and lower levels. But besides that I don't think a 10 gallon tank is the appropriate size tank to discuss "Levels", the tank just isn't tall enough in my opinion, a 20 high is far better for combining multi level fish.

I also run overstocked and compensate with extra filtration: my 37 gallon has an Aquaclear 70, a 40 gallon canister and 40 gallon sponge for a total of 150 gallon filtration. My 20 gallon has a total of 50 gallon filtration capacity. However over filtering a small 10 gallon in my opinion would also create a lot of water turbulence which I thought was the opposite of what bettas like.

I would keep the betta by itself and buy a 20 gallon, stock it with the fish you described and still have plenty of room to add the other fish suggested in previous comments.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 10:00 PM
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Sorry to rain on your parade but IMHO I don't think this is an ideal setup for such a small tank. I recommend a 15 or 20 gallon for these fish. I own all of the species you mentioned and currently keep a large shoal of Cory's (false julii, panda, C. Leucomelas, and dwarf Cory's, with a dozen Rasboras in a 37 gallon. And I wouldn't use anything smaller than a 20 gallon for Cory's. I also own Bettas and they each showed signs of stress when cohabitating in my community tanks so they each live happily in their own tanks now. I also don't agree that they are strictly upper level fish. I know mine like to explore upper, middle and lower levels. But besides that I don't think a 10 gallon tank is the appropriate size tank to discuss "Levels", the tank just isn't tall enough in my opinion, a 20 high is far better for combining multi level fish.

I also run overstocked and compensate with extra filtration: my 37 gallon has an Aquaclear 70, a 40 gallon canister and 40 gallon sponge for a total of 150 gallon filtration. My 20 gallon has a total of 50 gallon filtration capacity. However over filtering a small 10 gallon in my opinion would also create a lot of water turbulence which I thought was the opposite of what bettas like.

I would keep the betta by itself and buy a 20 gallon, stock it with the fish you described and still have plenty of room to add the other fish suggested in previous comments.
"Level" is where a species generally establishes territory and spends a majority of its time. It has been my experience that no species spends 24/7 at one level. I don't believe I've seen anyone here aver Betta are strictly upper-level?

From experience, I find it is appropriate to discuss levels in 12" high tanks like a 10 or a 20 long. Maybe not back when I started and all one could get were larger species like Swords, Mollies, Cichlids, etc. But tiny Nano fish have rewritten the rules on stocking and how we view habitat.

As far as Chili Rasbora, scientific profiles and those by long-time, knowledgeable hobbyists/lecturers like Rachel O'Leary (msjinkzd on YouTube) all indicate a 10 gallon footprint is perfect for a shoal of 6-10.

When I had 10s, I over-filtered with no issues. I ran two TruAqua PFE-1 HOB (up to 15 gallons and 45 GPH) or one PFE-1 and one that is rated 80 GPH for up to 25 gallons. Both are adjustable.

I experimented and discovered that if one starts the filter out on a low setting and gradually increases the Betta will exercise in the output and begin to gain fin and peduncle strength. Mine even seem to enjoy swimming in and out of the bubble wands. With only the occasional HMPK, I have had a majority HM with exaggerated long fins.

From the above observations, I have never bought the argument that Betta don't "like" current. I believe that is our interpretation of the response of a weak fish to current. By "weak," I mean those raised in a current-less environment that suddenly find water actually moves! Condition a Betta and it will live happily in a current-filled tank. Also, mine seldom, if ever, surface to breathe.

Your opinion is much appreciated. It made me ask myself why I recommend as I do and to research my knowledge base for the answers.

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