Getting rid of algae - Betta Fish and Betta Fish Care
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Getting rid of algae

Green algae started growing in my betta's tank about a week ago. I'd appreciate your suggestions on how to safely get rid of it.

The algae started in a few patches on the gravel first, then started accumulating on the glass and plants. I'd say it's light-moderate, but it's enough to be an eyesore. My betta doesn't seem affected by it.

The tank isn't near a window, but the evening sun might be reflecting off of a mirror by the window and into the aquarium. I've started keeping the curtains closed in the evening and not using the aquarium light, and it seems to have slowed down the growth.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 11:14 PM
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I used Seachem Excel. If you have Crypts, Marimo or Crypts use a .25 dose and work up. Or, you can use peroxide and directly apply. There are a bunch of tutorials on the Internet. The other option is a Nerite Snail; which kind depends on tank size.

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 03:57 AM
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Step one, remove fish. Step two, toss entire tank out window. Congratulations, you have gotten rid of your algae!

Lol, I have learned to accept my algae. It takes waste out of the water and provides food for the microorganisms that my fry eat. Circle of life and all that. You could try light-shocking it by keeping it in a dark place for a few days, but that might kill other plants (except anubias, java fern, java moss).
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 05:02 AM
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Whats your tank maintenance like

Maintenance:
How often did you perform a water change?
What percentage of water did you change?
Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water?
What additives do you use?

Water Parameters:
What are your water parameters? Please give exact numbers. If tested by pet store please get exact numbers. "Fine" or "Safe" won't help us help you.
Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness (GH):
Alkalinity (KH):

There is a reason why this is happening, It could be bad maintenance, too much too little light, over feeding, Filtration issue or a combination of some or all the items listed.

Once we establish the reason we can work out how to fix it. There is no quick fix for this.

Last edited by NickAu; 04-29-2016 at 05:07 AM.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 12:53 PM
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If you have a large enough tank, my otos cleaned off all the algae in my tank. Now I'm purposely growing algae just to feed them.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 02:34 PM
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One adult nerite snail. Problem solved.

I swear
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 12:30 PM Thread Starter
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I'm sorry, I drifted away from the forum and saw your post just now.

The algae got better after a few days with the light off and then a partial water change, but it isn't completely gone. It seems like any duration of light over 5 hours gets it growing again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NickAu View Post
Whats your tank maintenance like

Maintenance:
How often did you perform a water change? every 2 weeks
What percentage of water did you change? 25%
Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water? vacuum the substrate
What additives do you use? just Tetra Betta Safe during partial water changes, then the recommended maintenance dose of Tetra SafeStart Plus 24 hours later

Water Parameters:
What are your water parameters? Please give exact numbers. If tested by pet store please get exact numbers. "Fine" or "Safe" won't help us help you.
Ammonia: 0, starts going up to about .15 a couple of days before the water change
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: about 25
pH: 7.5
Hardness (GH): haven't tested, will do so
Alkalinity (KH): haven't tested, will do so

There is a reason why this is happening, It could be bad maintenance, too much too little light, over feeding, Filtration issue or a combination of some or all the items listed.

Once we establish the reason we can work out how to fix it. There is no quick fix for this.
Also, my filter is a Deep Blue Bio-Maxx Nano HOB.

I've been taking out the plants during water changes to clean them, but securing them in the gravel again has gotten to be a hassle. Anubias roots aren't very pliable. I thought about transitioning to silk plants, but I assume I'd just be trading one set of inconveniences for another.

Last edited by VinceIII; 05-27-2016 at 12:36 PM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 03:28 PM
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What is the light? What plants? What size tank?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-27-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RussellTheShihTzu View Post
What is the light? What plants? What size tank?
- standard 5.5 gallon tank
- Aqueon full-spectrum T8 8000K
- 1 large anubias, 3 medium anubias, 1 anubias petite, 2 java ferns

I'm pretty sure the algae started because I left the light on for about 10 hours for a few days. I also feel like the light is a little too bright for my aquarium. I'm going to order a Stingray. In the meantime, I still need to take care of the algae.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-28-2016, 02:23 AM
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You need more fast-growing stem plants to out-compete the algae for food. Anubias tanks are notorious for being algae machines because of the slow Anubias growth. Once you get the Stingray you should see the algae drop off. I have them on all of my tanks. With the exception of a 5.5 near natural light I haven't had any algae problems. Lights are all on timers set for eight hours. I use the 16" on my 5.5s but a 12" will also work. You might find them for less here. $5.00 shipping the last time I bought.

Stingray

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