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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Maybe 3 weeks ago, I started to see white areas on Chappy around his gills and down his body. I had to squint to notice, but they were there. I don't know what it is since I'm not an expert, nor do I know the seriousness of it, so I thought I would see if he could fight it off. I do a 25% water change at least once a week, and then I'll change the entire 1 gallon tank once a month. I just watched his progress for about 2 weeks... it didn't really go away, but it didn't really look like it was getting worse. After 2 weeks, I realized it was still there, so I pulled out the API T.C. Tetracycline (Tetracycline Hydrochloride) and Fungus Cure (Victoria Green B and Acriflavine) ... it says 1 packet for 10 gallons, so I gave what I eyed-out to be 1/10th of each packet. Before the treatment, Chappy was fine.. swimming around, alert... after the treatment, he became very sick and today he died. I'm so frustrated!!!

Did I overdose him? Did the sickness he had just overtake him? It looked like each of his tiny little scales were slightly flared out from his body and he just just laid at the bottom of the tank, breathing heavily until he finally passed. Poor little guy....

What do those treatments do to bettas if they are exposed to too much? Does it burn the fish? Affect the nervous system or respiratory system?

How important is the timeframe when treating white spots? Did I wait too long to do something? Was his immune system too weak by the time I introduced medicine?
 

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Having all his scales on end, looking like a line cone is probably dropsy. My guess would be from water conditions. The amount of water changes for a little 1 gallon like that was not enough. It is a common mistake. Water changes for a 1 gallon should be atleast 25% twice a week and a full 100 % once a week. He was probably just run down and became susceptible to disease because of poor water conditions. If you don't have a water testing kit, it would be a very valuable tool, also do you have a heater? They are tropical and keeping them warm makes them stronger as well. They like to be no less than 78 f and up to 82 f. This is my guess as to why he got sick, and dropsy is almost always from poor water conditions and is very hard if impossible to treat. All we can do is learn from our mistakes and do better for our new little friends. Others may have something different to offer but those are my two cents.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I just looked up dropsy, that's what the poor guy had... I think maybe he had a fungus, I treated it, he got stressed, his immune system lowered, he contracted dropsy and died. How sad...

That makes me feel horrible to know I caused him to die. I assumed 1 week 100% water changes for 1 gallon would be too much. What water conditioner do you recommend? How do you recommend re-introducing betta to tank after 100% water change with the varying water temp?

Yes, I have a heater that I would turn on at nights when I turn my AC lower, water gets around 70 degrees.. but I admit I wasn't using it every night. I will do that for my next betta.

Can you overdose on the meds though? For future reference?
 

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A couple things. Yes you can overdose on meds but I would think it was his illnesses that got the best of him. You should have an adjustable Heater that will maintain the same temperature constantly. Having the temp go up and down also is hard on them and weakens immunity. Keep it at about 80 for best temp. No lower than 78. Keep it constant.

What I do for water changes is I just have 2 thermometers and so I run a a pail( a clean one i bough t and use only for the fish) with hot and cold water until I get it as close to the same temp as what is in the tank. I use Aquaplus nutritfin water conditioner but prime/stress cost are also really good ones. Anything that says it gets rid of chlorine, chloramine, and other tap water toxins. If it has aloe or something that helps with slime coat on fish it is even better. Once water is desired temp add water conditioner, a little extra is never a bad thing of this, especially if netting or injured at all. Helps with stress. You can read the ( stickys) at the front of the betta care section posts about proper water changes for sizes of tanks. Other really useful stickys there too, worth the read .
Basically you should probably do about 2/ 25% water changes and 1/100%a week for 1 g tank. I have a 2.5 with filter and I do either that or if in a crunch will do 1 / 50% and 1/ 100% per week but more often and small ones are better. The toxins never leave the tank even with a filter and even when it looks crystal clear it can become totally toxic.

I would highly recommend getting an API water testing kit, it lasts a really long time, cheaper on Amazon. Will test ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. All very important. Stickys on this nitrite cycle too, also good to know.

When doing a water change, it is good to have a gravel syphon as it makes it really easy and helps to clean the substrate on the bottom which is also important (cleans extra food and poop from bottom). For little changes I usually leave the fish in the tank and gently syphon around them, then gently add the fresh treated water back in. For the big water change I usually have a little cup that I take them out in about half the cup of tank water and put aside, then once I have the fresh treated water I will add just a little (about half and half) to his cup to acclimate him while I am cleaning his tank up. Do the 100% or as close to it as you can without dumping tank out and then clean any decorations or plants(usually I do this every 2nd week) and add new water. Let it run for a few minutes and then add the fish in the cup water and all to the tank. ( ALWAYS UNPLUG HEATER WHILE DOING WATER CHANGES OR IT CAN CRACK).
I know this seems like a ton of info but if you just reread it a couple of times slowly it isn't as complicated as it sounds.

Please don't feel too bad, we all have made mistakes and the important thing is you want to do better for your next little guy. If you need to wait until you can get the stuff needed (test kit ect.) it is better to do this and be prepared. You will do great the next time around. They are hardy fish but the most important thing is clean, heated water and they do wonderfully.
Please take time to read the stickys there is a ton of really useful info on them for all of us to know.

Hope this helps, if you have any more questions, just ask OK. I would love to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the info.. that makes sense about having the 2nd thermometer for a separate container to match temp.

What heater do you use that does a good job accurately maintaining temp?

Is it possible to keep a live plant in a 1 gallon tank that you can remove to clean tank and then re-plant after every cleaning? Something that will stay alive for months? Something that can survive in rocks instead of sand? I've been using a plastic plant just because it's low maintenance and I try to make cleaning tank as streamlined as possible.

What did you mean when you said: "Stickys on this nitrite cycle too, also good to know" ? I actually realized I already have testing strips. When I test levels, what do I do if they are imbalanced?

I'm probably going to go get new betta today.
 

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Wait, before you put in another betta you need to clean out your tank really well. Take out gravel and rinse well with large dose of aquarium salt ( also great 1st medicine to have on hand for alot of betta diseases by the way so make sure you have some handy) and clean tank that way too. Once all is clean resemble. Do you have a filter? If so put in new filter cartridges, if not disregard.
 

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Now, as for your other questions, the ( Hydor Theo 25watt) adjustable heater available on Amazon. Has been recommended to me by many people on here and I am currently awaiting mine. I have tried 3 different versions of non adjustable ones for smaller tanks and none seem to hold temp accurately.

As for a plant, the best would be ( a Marino Moss ball) they are a round fuzzy green ball. They require low light and little care. You just plop it in and when doing water changes take out and rinse about in old tank water and then put back in tank. They help add oxygen to water. I have heard that Anubis is also easy but I like the most balls myself. The other and best plants for bettas are silk plants as they are not rough and do not tear fins.

The test straps are better than nothing but can be very unreliable so if you can get the one I suggested at some point I would highly recommend it.

Now as for the stickys.. They can be found on the main page of this site. Look under Betta fish care/then go to both Betta basics and Guides and resources. There are many necessary things you need to know under those sites.

As for your question about what to do if one of your test straps tests high, the answer is always do an immediate water change. Depending on how high it is will tell you how much to change. If it is sky high then you are not doing water changes enough or feeding way too much so you need to reassess what you are doing and do a full 100%water change. But if doing as I suggested and what stickys recommend (please read these) then you should probably only need to do about a 25-50 %water change at that time.

The other thing I use to clean my tank stuff when I need to dissenfect like you do right now is Hydrogen Peroxide. In the brown bottle at a drug store. NOT alcohol. It is good because if when you are done and you didn't get it all off ( which whenever using anything to clean you should rinse again and again anyway) but it turns to oxygen when it hits the water so is not toxic to fish. I sometimes use it if I need to clean decorations and plants well from the tank because they are slimy feeling. I mix about half the bottle (it is cheap) in 1/4 filled sink (cleaned really well first hand that is) and then add some aq salt. When I say aq salt there is a special salt at pet store just for aquariums. It is different than table salt and can be very helpful in many cases of cleaning and most illnesses of fish. Always a first way to treat before meds if possible and also very cheap.

I hope that answered all the questions you had. The only thing is to make sure you are feeding a quality food. The best two pellets recommended on here are " Omega one buffet pellets" and " New life spectrum" having a quality food also helps betta have good immunity and grow well.

If you do all these things and inform yourself on all the pertinent things to know on the stickys you should be a much more successful betta owner and hopefully get a longtime buddy.
When getting your new one make sure to look for one that has clean and clear eyes and body. No ragged scales or fins and looks really happy and healthy. If he is really tiny as some stores sell you may need to get some of the mini betta pellets to start him off as they have tiny mouths when super small. I personally think it is better to try and get one a little bit older, somewhere in the middle but it is fun to watch them grow up too. Most times when you get them in heated water their colors will deepen and or change altogether sometimes as they warm up and usually in a beautiful and unexpected way. They they've when treated as the tropical fish that they are.
Good luck and I would love to see photos.
Any more questions just ask I will do my best to help. :)
 

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Ps. They also like to have a couple places to hide. So either a taller plant or two or a little clay pot or teacup or cave decoration . With decorations you need to make to feel inside and all around and make sure to file off any rough edges as they often are really rough inside. For a little one gallon a tall plant with wide leaves ,as they like to rest on them, would be good, then maybe a morimo moss ball and a little clay pot or cave. Have fun with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thank you for all your help! I didn't get a new betta yet. I realize I need to prepare a little before I get my next one. I have my list of things to get. :) You were a big help. If I have any more questions, I'll let you know.
 

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Thank you for all your help! I didn't get a new betta yet. I realize I need to prepare a little before I get my next one. I have my list of things to get. :) You were a big help. If I have any more questions, I'll let you know.
I am so glad I was able to help, many people have helped me over the years and I too made many mistakes. The point is that we are here to learn and help each other and hopefully do better by our little betta friends.

I think it is a really good decision to prepare and get everything ready as you said. That way the next little boy you bring home will hopefully go much smoother. Learning is a constant thing and even those who have been looking after pets (of any kind) for years even decades, can always learn and do better. The important thing is you care and want to.
Please feel free to just look me up and send me a private message if you have any more questions, that way you don't have to worry about finding this thread, just in case it gets really long, or start a new thread and ask community, as you did, for anything else you need help or clarification with.

There are members that are moderators and also ones that are part of the reference team. Sometimes they are lot more educated (not always) but can be. If you look through various posts you will see these names under their name and Avatar and you can also send a message to one of them as well. Some of the ones that made or posted the stickys are really great resources, especially if about the topic they posted.

I wish you much luck and please share a picture with me when you get your new little friend. Nicole. :lol:
 
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