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Fin rot? Ammonia burn? Both? Please help

854 views 6 replies 2 participants last post by  JackTheCaptain  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,

I've had Vex (male betta, not sure what type) for about a year. He's not had any previous health issues (other than fin rips/nips - I think just because they're so long). I moved home about 2 months ago, he was in the bag for about 7 hours due to travel etc, I kept the temperature as stable as possible (though I couldn't monitor it). And I kept the majority (at least 80/90%) of the original tank water. The filter media was also kept in this water for the duration of travel. I did this based on advice from the LFS.

I've been measuring the water parameters weekly watching for a spike/cycle crash. It was only when I realised that as well as having dodgy looking fins (which I had been dismissing due to his habit of ripping them - though on closer inspection they're worse than normal) and color changes to his face that I checked the date on the test kit and realised it was out of date (I'm stupid, I know). I don't know how long the water was bad (or how bad). I have new tests now (liquid tests from the LFS), I tested straight away and got a reading of 0.2 for ammonia (on the 22 Nov 24). The following readings in the questionnaire are from today.

I have a horrendous feeling it's fin rot/ammonia burn and I have no idea what to do. I feel so guilty for overseeing something so obvious 😕

I've tried to attach pictures for demonstration, I've added a picture of how he used to be (last one)

Any advice appreciated!



Housing:
How many gallons is your tank? 10 (45 liters)
Does it have a filter? Yes
Does it have a heater? Yes
What temperature is your tank? 26 (taken with a glass thermometer, awaiting digital thermometer)
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? The filter outlet agitates the surface water (not a strong current)
Does your Betta have tank mates? 2 What kind? Netrite snails

Food:
What food brand do you use? Bug bites. Usually has a rotation of bloodworm, being shrimp, daphnia live food.
Do you feed flakes or pellets? Pellets
Freeze-dried? No
How often do you feed your Betta? Usually twice a day
How much? 2-3 depending what hes eating

Maintenance:
Before your Betta became ill how often did you perform a water change? Weekly
What percentage of water did you change? 25% weekly, 50% monthly when I cleaned the filter (didn't replaced sponge, just unclogged it in fish water I'd taken out)
What is the source of your water? Tap water (with conditioner)
Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water? Vacuum
What additives do you use other than conditioner? A remineraliser (aquadur) and fertiliser for the plants (tropica)
What brand of conditioner? API stress coat

Water Parameters:
What are your water parameters? Please give exact numbers. If tested by pet store please get exact numbers. "Fine" or "Safe" won't help us help you. Important: Test your water before the regular water change; not after one.

Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
pH: 8
Hardness (GH): Need to get test
Alkalinity (KH): 9

Symptoms and Treatment:
When did you first notice the symptoms? Couple of weeks ago I noticed a ragged looking tail
How has your Betta’s appearance changed? Ragged looking tale and scales on fave turning white/silver
How has your Betta’s behavior changed? Very lethargic, not interested in food (but eating a little). Sitting on his bed at the top of the water not swimming/moving unless disturbed.
Is your Betta still eating? Yes a little
Have you started treating your Betta? If so, how? No, I was just told to keep the water clean by the LFS and now I'm here for help
Does your Betta have any history of being ill? No
How long have you owned your Betta? About a year
Was he or she ill or suffering some sort of damage when purchased? No
 

Attachments

#3 ·
Hi
You're not dumb, and I'm not 100% convinced that's rot or burn.

Why are you using a remineralizer? I'm not sure you need it.

Try some of these adjustments;

Start doing at least one, maybe two water changes during the week, for a while (a month? maybe longer).

You might consider adding some mineralized spring water to your tap, start with a ratio of 25% Spring water/75% tap during water changes, and if he seems to improve maybe eventually use a 50/50 ratio.

I assume you're using the tank lights, but for now if at all possible turn them off. Definitely dim them, and have them on for only six hours or less normally.

See if you can get Vita Chem, and add that during water changes.

Obtain some rooibos or oolong tea and float a couple bags in his tank. Replace them every day or so.
 
#4 ·
Thank you so much for your reply! I can't tell you how much I appreciate it!

Why are you using a remineralizer? I am using this as the LFS said I need to use it for the snails, the area I moved from did have soft water so it's just part of the routine. I've been putting it in as I'm currently waiting for the new GH test and thought. Better safe than sorry (though, I might regret that now).

I currently have the lights on for 8 hours for the plants but I'll reduce it to 6 as soon as I'm home.

I'm not sure about Ammonia burn myself tbh, I've had no experience with it. He is staying very close to the water surface (has barely moved in days) but doesn't appear to be gasping for breath and his gills don't seem to be moving rapidly. The LFS guy said Ammonia burn could turn his fins white/silver and to look for a slime/stringy white substance which would mean infection - I can't see any string/slime. Just a gradual color changes on both sides of his face (over about a week).

Any ideas what it might be? Parasites? Genetics?
 
#5 ·
I'll reduce it to 6 as soon as I'm home.
I would turn them completely off for at least a few days, there's a lot of stress for him with those lights and he needs a chance for his immune system to build. Later you can try having them on, gradually increasing the time until they're on for four hours and see if your plants are ok with that.

I'd stop with the remineralizer and see if there are other ways to help the snails, or see how they do with no other additives, just the use of mineralized spring water.

It could be genetics.
 
#6 ·
The lights are off, I'm just trying to make him comfortable.

He's lying on the floor of the tank now, occasionally doing a very erratic dart to the surface (as if trying to jump out) then lying down again. He has his head angled up as if trying to get to the top but not moving. I've tried to move him onto something (I've attached literally everything I have for aquriums to the inside to try and give him as many beds as possible. I've tried to move him on them but he freaks out and I'm scared ill do more harm than good).

He does seem to be struggling to breathe. I've put some methlyne blue in as apparently it helps increase there oxygen.

I've looked and looked and looked. Other than tatty fins, a change of color on his gill covers, and I guess a generally faded color over his body. I can't see anything obvious. No fungus, no ich, no ulcers. I'm totally at a loss. I've no idea what I've done or how I could of prevented this.

I really don't know hpw to help him, or even make him comfortable.
 
#7 ·
I really don't know how to help him, or even make him comfortable.
Rather than the med which can be harsh, for increased oxygen, add an air stone. Also, you could lower the water level.

I'll just basically repeat what I suggested above;

Do a water change right now, and also tomorrow. Then, start doing at least one, maybe two water changes during the week, for a while (a month? maybe longer).

You might consider adding some mineralized spring water to your tap, start with a ratio of 25% Spring water/75% tap during water changes, and if he seems to improve maybe eventually use a 50/50 ratio.

See if you can get Vita Chem, and add that during water changes.

Obtain some rooibos or oolong tea and float a couple bags in his tank. Replace them every day or so.