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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I decided to do the "fish in" cycling and now it's time to do a water change but should it be a 100% change or something less than that. It's overdue :)oops: got a little distracted with my kids and 2 dogs) but I'm not sure how much to change out. And if it's only a half change then do I treat the water going back in? Would that be too much on "George"? My daughter didn't like the name I picked out for her :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well I didn't want to but the smaller tank I had wasn't large enough for a water heater and I didn't want him to get too cold.
 

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How long has it been since your last water change, and what percentage did you change then?

I would do a 50% change, not 100. During the cycle, 100% changes risk whacking out the water chemistry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I haven't done a water change yet Bombalurina. And do you think I need to add more water treatment to the fresh water going in? I'm just trying to get my "fish act" together. George is my first and hopefully there will be many more to follow :)
 

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The water going in definitely needs to be treated. What size is your tank? How big is your smaller tank? Let me first say I'm not saying what you are doing isn't possible, but it's a challenge to keep the water chemistry in line. You are trying to keep enough ammonia in the tank to get the cycle going but and at a "safe" level for the fish. Not to be harsh or arrogant sounding but if you're overdue on the change it could already be too much for the fish to stay at in that tank with a level of .25 ppm of ammonia. Even if you kept it right at .25 ppm which is what most people recommend as the limit for "fish in" cycling with Bettas it will cause your Betta stress over time. Then add a few spikes on top of that and you have a vulnerable fish to say the least.

I understand your dilemma with the tanks and such. I would highly recommend to be looking at a Pet Keeper and a 25w heater as a back up just in case the fish starts to show signs of distress. At the earliest sign of distress such as lethargy or fin splits I would move the fish out and switch to fishless cycling. This will give the best chance at recovery and a shorter healing time.
 

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I would start at 25% and test the water afterwords about 30min to a hour. If you are still above .25 PPM ammonia do another 25% change. I really couldn't imagine you being over .25ppm at that point unless you are already extremely high.
 

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I feel testing the water 24 hours after water change is better than 30min to an hour later. Not sure tho. Especially since Bombalurina said to do a 50% water change. I feel a 50% water change is better than the 25% i suggested.
 

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Well I imagine she has a filter since she is talking about cycling. It should easily circulate all the water in that tank in an hour. I know I can drop a drop of ammonia in my 10 gallon tank with a low flow filter and get an accurate test reading of the ammonia levels. I just started my fishless cycle 4 days ago and the ammonia levels have been stable at 4.0 PPM since an hour after I put it in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, well to update everyone I bought a new filter for the tank. I have an internal filter and this one doesn't push George all over the place. I will be checking the water params daily and do proper water changes. I will also be watching for any signs of illness or stress but luckily so far, so good.
 

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Awesome and good luck with the new family pet. In my short experience with these fish and reading all the information I can absorb on the web giving them regular attention and err to the conservative side of the information available then most of the time you will have a happy and healthy fish.
 

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How long after a water change you should test varies with your water conditioner and pH. For instance, I use Prime, which will give a false positive on ammonia for 24 hours after using it, so there is no point me testing my water in that period.

During a fish-in cycle, I believe I've seen OFL recommend 2 50% changes a week, one with and one without vacuuming.
 
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