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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Housing
What size is your tank? : 2.5
What temperature is your tank? : 76-78
Does your tank have a filter? : No
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? : No
Is your tank heated? : Yes
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? : none

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? : Aqueon Betta Food (pellets) and Frozen Bloodworms (thawed)
How often do you feed your betta fish? : Every day except Wednesday.

Maintenance
How often do you perform a water change? : Once a week
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? : about 25%
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? : none

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?

I had it tested at petsmart and they said the water is perfectly fine.

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? : looks healthy but dorsal fin does not fan out.
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? : lethargic
When did you start noticing the symptoms? : a month ago
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? : not with medicine, but I have her a heater and a new location away from the glass door.
Does your fish have any history of being ill? : no
How old is your fish (approximately)? : bought her from petsmart about 6 months ago.

Although she does not have a tank buddy, her tank was next to my other betta's tank. I have now decided to place a piece of paper between their tanks. Prior to that, I saw them encounter each other. While he was flaring she confronted him, but she was not. She did however charge slightly and then went to hide on the opposite side of the tank. I have a feeling her neighbor was the cause of the problem, but I would like to hear any other suggestions on what the issue could be.

Thank you
 

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Unfiltered, a 2.5 needs more water changes really, this could be whats causing teh behavioural change. You should be looking at one 50% and 1 100% chaneg every week, as a minimum.

The dorsal issue is called 'clamping' and is a stress response. It may be these water changes and the new location will eliminate the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unfiltered, a 2.5 needs more water changes really, this could be whats causing teh behavioural change. You should be looking at one 50% and 1 100% chaneg every week, as a minimum.

The dorsal issue is called 'clamping' and is a stress response. It may be these water changes and the new location will eliminate the issue.
Thank you for responding, but I have some questions to your response. Wouldn't a 100% change cause problems since it clears most to everything out? Also, why would my other betta fish be completely fine when they have the same maintenance and care? I just want to make sure I don't do something extreme that will accidentally harm her.
 

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in agreement that your betta needs more frequent water changes.. if you are uncomfortable with 100%, could you try doing 50% twice a week? no filter needs more water changes..ammonia build-up over time could be the cause of her problem. also, how much food are you giving her? she looks a little thin to me.

just my thoughts.
 

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You don't have a filter in your tank so it's not cycled and there's really nothing to grab the beneficial bacteria and filter out the ammonia. Even a 2.5 cycled tank would require 2 wc's a week.

I agree with the water change routine bettamummy recommended. As far as why one is like this and not the other, it really depends on the fish. Some are just hardier than others and can tolerate more.

Even if seeing the other fished caused the stress (clamped fins), they would definitely benefit from more water changes.

Also, what's the reason you don't add any conditioner to your water?
 

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also adding this. Please do not trust Petsmart tests.. they tell everybody the same thing, that their water is fine.. means absolutely nothing.. at the very least you should have an API liquid ammonia test kit to check the water.. and you really should condition your water to remove any toxic substances.. most people here recommend Prime.
 

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+1 to the prime and test kit. and I agree, you'd need to probably do atleast 1-50% and one 100% wc every single week. dont forget to acclimate her so shes not too stressed out.
I add about 2 drops per gallon of prime water conditioner daily, and make sure not to over feed. I have two of these set ups (Just a tank, a hide, plants, and a heater...oh and a lid of course!!) and my males are perfectly healthy,and vibrant (see my male Mushu in my picture is in my 2.5g), my water params are also always perfectly fine.
 

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You aren't going to ruin any bacteria colonies, as you aren't going to have a decent cycle without a filter, yes some bacteria will home themselves in the gravel, but there is no water flow.

+1 on acclimation after any water chnage bigger than 50%.

If you really dont want to do a 100%, do 3-4 50% a week, not two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
in agreement that your betta needs more frequent water changes.. if you are uncomfortable with 100%, could you try doing 50% twice a week? no filter needs more water changes..ammonia build-up over time could be the cause of her problem. also, how much food are you giving her? she looks a little thin to me.

just my thoughts.
I can do that. As for food, 4 pellets on the morning and 3 at night. I feed plenty of bloodworms twice a week. I worry about damaging their swimming bladder, but I have concerned about her weight as well. I wish there were more picture samples to figure out if I am over-feeding or under- feeding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You aren't going to ruin any bacteria colonies, as you aren't going to have a decent cycle without a filter, yes some bacteria will home themselves in the gravel, but there is no water flow.

+1 on acclimation after any water chnage bigger than 50%.

If you really dont want to do a 100%, do 3-4 50% a week, not two.
Ok, thank you very much.
 

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I can do that. As for food, 4 pellets on the morning and 3 at night. I feed plenty of bloodworms twice a week. I worry about damaging their swimming bladder, but I have concerned about her weight as well. I wish there were more picture samples to figure out if I am over-feeding or under- feeding.
that certainly sounds like enough food, I feed my girls a little less than that and they are fat and sassy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
also adding this. Please do not trust Petsmart tests.. they tell everybody the same thing, that their water is fine.. means absolutely nothing.. at the very least you should have an API liquid ammonia test kit to check the water.. and you really should condition your water to remove any toxic substances.. most people here recommend Prime.
I will make sure to do that, thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
+1 to the prime and test kit. and I agree, you'd need to probably do atleast 1-50% and one 100% wc every single week. dont forget to acclimate her so shes not too stressed out.
I add about 2 drops per gallon of prime water conditioner daily, and make sure not to over feed. I have two of these set ups (Just a tank, a hide, plants, and a heater...oh and a lid of course!!) and my males are perfectly healthy,and vibrant (see my male Mushu in my picture is in my 2.5g), my water params are also always perfectly fine.
I will take your advice, but I am planning on going ahead and moving them to bigger tanks. I posted a new post for that in the tank section I you wish to help me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Unfiltered, a 2.5 needs more water changes really, this could be whats causing teh behavioural change. You should be looking at one 50% and 1 100% chaneg every week, as a minimum.

The dorsal issue is called 'clamping' and is a stress response. It may be these water changes and the new location will eliminate the issue.
I used tetra quick strips and it says that the water was :

Ammonia: safe
Nitrite & nitrate: safe
Hardness: hard
Chlorine: safe
Total Alkalinity: high (300)
Ph: alkaline (8.4)

After doing a 55-60 water replacement, everything was the same except that total alkalinity was moderate (80)
 

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Strips are not the most accurate of tests. Liquid are much more accurate, and even the accuracy of those is debated by hardcore hobbiests. :)
 
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