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Hey All!

For Christmas I asked for Filters and Heaters for my Betta's and my Parents asked which ones I would want. But finding a good heater and filter is not exactly my cup of tea so I was hoping maybe you all could give me some suggestions on reliable quality heaters and filters for a 2gal, 1.5gal and a 1gal?


Thank you all for you suggestions in advance!!:-D
 

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IMO/E-filters are optional for this species-especially in the smaller tanks due to the water movement being the cause of fin damage and stress with some of the Long fin males. Based on an experiment I conducted some time ago-I found that water changes only slightly changed in tanks 1-4gal without a filter.
If I did filter a tank under 5gals...I would use either a UGF(if I didn't want live plants) or sponge filter.

As for heaters, what I use on my 1gal-5gal tanks-The preset-78F, 25w Tetra brand. These have worked well for me, however, depending on room temp the water temp may vary by 5-10 degrees more or less-Rarely has the water temp gone below 74F and my fish room temp is usually in the lower to mid 70'sF all the time. I might add too, that my tanks with the adjustable heaters can vary by 5 degrees more or less too.

IME-my tropical fish and Bettas- tolerate the gradual temp changes that normally occur within the systems and at different levels-as well as day/night and light on/off. Its the sudden extreme temps that seem to cause problems.
 

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I've used the Hagen Elite Mini filter for 3 gallon critter keeper. The filter sticks on the inside of the tank but is small and has an adjustable flow. It worked well for my bettas. I have them in my 10 gallon as well. Sponge filters would be fine also. But as OFL stated with tanks as small as 1 gallon and such you'd be ok without a filter. Just keep on your water changes.
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I use the submersible Tetra heater...I have a 10 gal so I have a 50 watt one, but I use a 25 watt one for my hospital tank. In a tank of that size you have I honestly don't believe a filter is necessary. Just be sure you are doing water changes like twice a week.
 

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IME-my tropical fish and Bettas- tolerate the gradual temp changes that normally occur within the systems and at different levels-as well as day/night and light on/off. Its the sudden extreme temps that seem to cause problems.
I just bought a 15w flat heater for my ~3 gallon Kritter Keeper that I'm using as a hospital tank. However the temp varies from around 73 degrees to 79 degrees, getting up to 79 when we have our heat turned on and 73 - 75 during the night and most of the day when we have the heat off. Do you think this causes too much stress for a betta, especially one recovering from fin rot? Any suggestions? I kind of want to just buy a 25w adjustable heater because I really prefer to have the temp constant.
 

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Usually the gradual temp changes are tolerated-its those sudden extreme changes that can sometimes be stressful even on healthy Bettas. IMO/E 73F isn't that low for short term and if you check the lower level or under items in the tank-it most likely will be lower than 73F-especially in tanks without water movement and the Betta will move freely from these cooler area without issue. And while keeping the temp somewhat stable is better and something we should try to maintain-In my experience, the slow/gradual changes that can normally occur within the system itself, day/night and light on/off are tolerated-as well as Betta being able to tolerate lower temps in general short term, however, its not recommend if it can be avoided.

You might try wrapping a towel or something around the tank to help retain the heat and cover the top of the tank with plastic veggie wrap to help retain heat/humidity over the water. Especially in the cooler months and/or when the AC is running- the air over the water can get too cool/dry and the Betta can catch a cold of sorts.-IMO/E the heat/humidity over the water is just as important if not more so-regarding overall Betta health.

You don't need to worry about the Betta suffocating by covering the top with plastic veggie wrap, provided that you have at least 1in dead air space. Usually the cord from the heater will be enough to assist with gas exchange as well as every time you lift a corner to feed, make a water change...etc....will assist with gas exchange as well....
 

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IMO/E the heat/humidity over the water is just as important if not more so-regarding overall Betta health.
Yeah that's why I like my glass top. It seems like it holds more heat and humidity in than a plastic hood (the kind with lights usually). Only thing is though, is that I usually have only a 1/4 to a 1/2 inch of space between the water and lid. Is that bad? The plastic strip that makes up the back two inches of it is a bit raised so it seems to let air in (about a 1in x 1/4in vent on each side), as well as the holes cut around the heater cord and filter outflow ramp/intake tube.
 

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It should be fine...just watch for condensation buildup...as long as you see little of that it should be fine-Its more important if the room is cool/dry to start.
Well the room is cold and dry, but there is always lots of condensation on the lid. I was just worried that he doesn't have enough air space between the water and lid...
 

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So is it okay that theres only 1/4 to 1/2 inch of air space between the water surface and lid?
 

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If the tank is at least 1gal-that should be fine-that would be enough dead air space for gas exchange...
My tank is 5 gallons. Does that mean it can have less than 1/4 inch?
 

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If the tank is at least 1gal-that should be fine-that would be enough dead air space for gas exchange...
Disregard my last post. My real question is: what is the minimum amount of air space between the lid and water surface needed in a 5 gallon tank for a betta? I am also curious about 2.5 gallons as well. Thanks :)
 

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For 2.5g and 5gal...at least 1/4-1/2 inch dead air space..
Im sorry I have trouble understanding words sometimes... So a 1/4 inch is perfectly fine? Thanks for being patient with me.
 

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Im sorry I have trouble understanding words sometimes... So a 1/4 inch is perfectly fine? Thanks for being patient with me.
Your welcome and Correct....

Your goal when using plastic veggie wrap is to help retain the heat and humidity over the water for the labyrinth organ. As long as you have some dead air space between the water and wrap-you don't need to worry about the Betta not having enough air-They are small fish and don't use that much anyway-plus, every time you lift a corner to feed, make water changes...etc at least once a day....this allows for the needed gas exchange. Not to mention it most likely won't be an air tight seal-due to any cords.
 

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Your welcome and Correct....

Your goal when using plastic veggie wrap is to help retain the heat and humidity over the water for the labyrinth organ. As long as you have some dead air space between the water and wrap-you don't need to worry about the Betta not having enough air-They are small fish and don't use that much anyway-plus, every time you lift a corner to feed, make water changes...etc at least once a day....this allows for the needed gas exchange. Not to mention it most likely won't be an air tight seal-due to any cords.
Okay. Thank you very much OFL. :)
 
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