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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I'm having problems with Vanilla.

About maybe a month ago? I noticed the cutie was bloated. So I took him out, did epsom salt treatments, fasted, etc. etc. I did this for about two weeks, and he didn't stop being bloated. I bought him some frozen daphnia and have been feeding him this once a night for the past week. He's still bloated, and I have no idea what's going on.

I looked up dropsy- and was trying to see if he had it. I can't really tell if his scales are raised or not, to be honest. He doesn't seem lethargic and he isn't clamped, he still has his color, still eats.. he's just huge. And I'm really worried.

I have some pictures:










I've kept him in a temp tank for the past month, lowered water level to help him swim (he kinda bounces about). Water changes every 2-3 days, stress coat for conditioner.

I really would appreciate anyone's help on this guy. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i honestly can't tell. i think they're more stretched than pine coned, but there's pictures up there that can show you what he looks like. he swims alright, he bounces from time to time and has less resistance whenever i'm moving things around in his tank.

he also still poops.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
it might be that, but it's been a lot longer than a few days and epsom salt/daphnia/fasting isn't helping.
 

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My guess goes to either Bacterial infection or internal parasites..
Just looks much like the Bacterial infection they got at bettatalk..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
neither of those sound good.. at least it's not dropsy.
do you know what i can do for him? is there a medicine i can buy?
 

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DISEASE: BACTERIAL INFECTION

red body sores typical of advanced bacterial infections

uGENERAL INFO:
If the betta‘s water becomes fouled with uneaten food and fish waste, if it is not well filtered or if the jars are not kept sparkling clean, bacterial bloom will promptly occur and infect your fish. Sometimes you keep the water clean and the fish still gets a bacterial infection!! >8[. Why? because bacteria is resident in your tap water, in the air, on your hands etc... Usually healthy bettas have their immune system to protect them against these attacks. But bettas with a deficient immune system (when a betta is stressed, because it was scared, or moved or shipped, its immune system will become deficient) will catch whatever is lurking in the water, including the bacteria. They will have a “bacterial infection”. VERY CONTAGIOUS!!
uSYMPTOMS: Betta may have clamped fins, lay at bottom or at surface, not eat, lose its color, turn gray, barely swim around. In more advanced cases, its body may start developing red patches, open sores and all kinds of nasty looking stuff. (Even holes in its head!! YIKES!!) Different bacteria affect fish differently. Some will attack the internal organs while others prefer to munch on the skin.
uTREATMENT: Do a full water change for jars or a 70% water change for tanks. (To get rid of some of the bacteria present). Clean filter, change filtering system, remove any uneaten food rotting, or any dead fish!!! Isolate any bettas with symptoms if in a community tank.
You should also treat the whole tank. There is a wide variety of antibiotics available for fish. REMEMBER: Remove carbon from your filters before you add the meds!! The carbon would otherwise absorb all the medication and you would be flushing your money down the tube. Oh, and did I mention money?? Yes, brace yourself, cause your little fishies are gonna cost you a bundle, fish antibiotics can get pretty darn expensive - just as people's antibiotics are, as you well know!!
If the sick bettas are small fries, I truly recommend using Tetracycline or Ampicillin (included in our Betta First Aid Kit) combined with Fungus Eliminator (included in our Betta First Aid Kit), or whatever you find at your store (look for “broad spectrum” antibiotics, though a good one is Kanamycin if you can find some). Follow manufacturer’s instructions and don’t stop the treatment until your bettas are well again. If betta is jarred, then as usual, figure out how much water your jar contains and divide the quantity of medication accordingly. Capsules are easier then tablets, because one can open a capsule and just sprinkle a tiny itsy bit of powder in jar. Tables, you will have to first crush, then divide. Well, have a blast!!!

This was taken from Bettatalk.com(just copy right things i guess I need it)



I'm not sure it is that, just looks like it to me..

Internal Parasites
•Symptoms: Betta is losing weight but eating normally and acting lethargic.
He/she might dart or rub against decor.
•Treatment: These can be hard to fight and can get confused with the fatal disease Tuberculosis. Perform daily 100% water changes (if possible, for larger aquariums change 3/4). Make sure you carefully clean the gravel to remove eggs/larva. Aq.Salt does not seem to be affective against internal parasites. I find combining ES with an anti-parasite med is best. Treat with 1-2tsp/gal Epsom Salt combined with either Jungle’s Anti-Parasite Pellets, Jungle’s Parasite Clear Fizz tabs or API General Cure. PP is also effective against internal parasites.

(this is from the sticky - credit thing :p)

Its less common but it can cause swelling..

One way or the other I would wait for one of the more experienced users to answer before starting treatment.. Treating for the wrong thing can make things worse.. (Never dealt with that myself so I don't want to say its 100% that)

Sorry I couldn't help more then this but my guess goes to Bacterial infection

Hope he gets better :)
 

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I too have a betta, named Alfred, and he has an extended belly.. he swims fine, eats,poops, and doesnt have any other probs except his belly has just gotten a little big. But if you find anything or get an answer please message me maybe?
 
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