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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so a couple weeks ago I thought my fish had fin rot but a few members told me it was fin regrowth however this week it has gotten worse and I'm almost certain it is fin rot. I have moved my fish to his emergency tank (11/9/13) which is 3 gallons and heated at 78 degrees (he was in a 10 gallon tank) All that's in there is a spongebob house for him to hide out under (no filter, no gravel, no plants). Water checked our good with test strips. I have started him on AQ salt and a small dose of Melafix, I plan on doing it for 7-10 days, with daily partial water changes ONLY adding a little AQ each water change..

Is there anything else I should do and how do I when the fin rot has been cured?

I will post pictures. The first is his tail before (when I was told it was fin regrowth). The second is him now, which is clearly NOT fin regrowth, also his bottom fin has a rip in it (as seen in the first picture).
 

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hmm i really don't see fin rot. Fin rot is dark, discolored, ''smudged'' adges.
If he is acting healthy and eating i would stop all medications and salt and just keep him in super clean water for a few days and try to observe and see if it will get worse, stay the same or will improve. Try to buy stress coat, it has Aloe Vera in it and will help with healing.
Salt is fine to use but again if he is acting healthy i would wait on it too. Any time you using aquarium salt you need to use therapeutic dose which is not what box instructions saying. Those instruction for the preventative care. Let me know and i will give you instructions.
Read about Melafix. Read my post #24
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=142066&highlight=betta+fish+check+list&page=3
For 3 gall that you have for him i would alternate water changes between 3 days 50% and 4th day full 100% water change. Make sure you acclimate him to the water slowly when you do full water change.
 

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There are many ways to do a water change and acclimate (reintroduce) your fish back into the tank. Here is a few variations that's pretty simple:
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
hmm i really don't see fin rot. Fin rot is dark, discolored, ''smudged'' adges.
If he is acting healthy and eating i would stop all medications and salt and just keep him in super clean water for a few days and try to observe and see if it will get worse, stay the same or will improve. Try to buy stress coat, it has Aloe Vera in it and will help with healing.
Salt is fine to use but again if he is acting healthy i would wait on it too. Any time you using aquarium salt you need to use therapeutic dose which is not what box instructions saying. Those instruction for the preventative care. Let me know and i will give you instructions.
Read about Melafix. Read my post #24
http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=142066&highlight=betta+fish+check+list&page=3
For 3 gall that you have for him i would alternate water changes between 3 days 50% and 4th day full 100% water change. Make sure you acclimate him to the water slowly when you do full water change.
Do you think he is tail biting instead? Because when I was watching you can see how much worse it has gotten over the course of a week, and I was researching and saw fin rot doesn't always have the black edges. I've never seen him going towards his tail either, and it has little holes in it along with the rips...I'm just so worried I want to help him.

Also, when I put him in the cup he really stresses himself out, he will through himself around until the point he's breathing deeply then he will calm down and start again, I really don't think he likes the small cup, and I don't want him to develop anything because his immune system has shut down. Usually I only do up to 90% water changes and keep him in the tank. What else do you suggest?

Thanks for all the other information! I will definitely buy some stress coat this after.
 

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cowboy i love the paintings ! And wow that is a fin rot. Even though he has a lot of dark coloration in him, you still can say it a fin rot. So what did you do to treat him? I am wondering how is he looks now?

GNWCO12 hmmm i am going to post the pictures of the tail biters for you so you can compare.
https://www.google.com/search?q=bet...Afx54GADg&sqi=2&ved=0CCwQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=667

GNWCO12 if he is acting healthy and eating fine i would just do daily water changes and observation. And like you said you will look for the stress coat. Try to do that for a week . Alternate water changes like i suggested. I would even do 2 days -50% and 3rd day 100% The water temperature is good do not make it warmer since the infection grow faster in the warmer water. Even 76* is perfect.
Stress coat do not add full dose of it since it also a water conditioner. Add about half of the dose for your 3 gall tank.
I know you don't want to stress him out with a small cup. May be try to buy a bigger like a tupperware container. Of course should be see through. I have 10 bettas some of them get really mad to be in a cup but as soon as i let them in the tank they are fine and i don't see them to be stressed. Sorry if it sound that i don't care but i have bettas for 7 years (10 bettas) and never had any problem. It ok sometimes to be stressed lol You can feed a little bit in that container. Please be careful when you keep them in the containers i had a few jumped out so just cover it and do not fill it all the way to the tap with the water. I usually scoop them with a cup behind them. I just come to the tank when they don't expect me and scoop them. Or you can lure them with a food in the cup.

So try to do the water changes and see if it helps. See if it better , the same or worse. Make a pictures so we can compare. The reason why i asking you to do that because if he is acting healthy and if he can improve with the water changes you don't want to stress him out with medications. Medications are stressful on immune system and internal organs .
Also do not use the salt any longer. We can observe him for a few days and if it really worse you can actually treat him with full dose of the salt .
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm not sure he's a tail biting either, at this point I really don't know what to think because it could be so many things, I just did a 50% water change, I'll do another one tomorrow and then 100% Tuesday and so on. He makes bubble nests in his 3 gallon tank but not in his 10 gallon tank, so I'm not sure if he may be happier in the smaller tank. I'm going to keep him in there and try to cycle the 10 gal while he's in his recovery tank. I will post an update in a week, and be sure to contact you, if you don't mind, so you can see the difference or make some suggestions.
 

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GNWCO12 Sure:) If you think he getting worse don't wait give us an update so we can evaluate and decide if he needs treatment . Of course , picture always helpful. I agree on to keep him in 3 gall tank. Some bettas really do better in the smaller tanks too.
Will wait for the update:)

And cowboy looking at the first picture and the second picture i just speechless, just wow big diffirence and he is sooo gorgeous love him!!! Do you cycle his tank ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update 3 days, and getting worse!!!

OK it's been three days he's gotten worse, There's a bunch of holes that appear closed off with a clear coating but none the less his tail fin still looks extremely weak. He's eating healthy, swimming, and flaring all the same. I've done 2 water changes, added a bit of salt the first day, and kept the water heated at 78. He's even making bubble nest, but I'm worried about his tail it looks horrible and it gets worse every night. Please help!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ANHEL123 I posted updated pictures, I wasn't sure if it notifies you, and I'm not even sure how to edit the original post, It's a bit confusing, but either way I feel like his tail is getting a lot worse, please look at the pictures
 

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Hey, i do get notifications in my e mail:) I am sorry i have a few questions which you might already provided us but it seems i can't fine it in your post's.

I am wondering how long you have him? I am thinking that it could be a tail biting.

Try monitor a few more days, just do water changes (daily) and see how its going. If you can you can post daily pictures here so we can see what is going on. If he is tail bitter he might do it daily or weekly. You never know with them. But if you can monitor close and see changes like ''u'' shapes and if its happened overnight it can be tail biting. You don't want to use medications or even salt if it indeed tail biting With tail biters all you need to do just keep water super clean to prevent infection.
Do you have light in his current tank? Did you have any decorations that he can rip his tail in his previous tank?
Also about spongebob house. I never had it myself but somehow it in the list of the dangerous ornaments CHECK POST #4

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=224650&highlight=dangerous+decoration
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've had him for a little over a month. All I have in his 3 gallon is his spongebob house, because he likes somewhere to hid and I don't have gravel or rocks, because I want to be able to monitor his waste output. I'm not sure what over things I could put in there to make him feel more comfortable.

In his 10 gallon, he had a silk plant, a sypnx clay man, before I moved him, I put the spongebob house back in there, and I recently added a moss ball after I moved him (but moved the spongebob house to his 3 gallon again for the comfort). He also has no filter in the 3 gallon, because I saw somewhere that is hinders fin regrowth. He does have one in his 10 gallon.

I would say this didn't start until after I noticed a pinhole in his tail, then it seemed to close up but then the deterioration started...this all started about a week after I got him
 

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I would not even recommend to have the filter for a 3 gall tank. I don't have filters in my tanks which is absolutely fine . I really think its better to keep him in his 3 gall tank for now without filer and do water changes, and see how he doing. Make pictures daily or every other day to see the diffirence .
About all the decorations i really don't know . I don't have any because i am paranoid looking at that list of the dangerous decorations that i gave you , so i just don't buy any to be on the safe side. I have only gravel and silk plants. If you want buy a silk plant for him. But do not buy the tall one.


In worse case scenario you might use aquarium salt and medications. You do have aq salt on hands , so you you want go buy API Triple sulfa so you have it in case you need it. But hold on on that until we absolutely sure what he has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
He really does seem happier in the 3 gallon tank, but now I have a 10 gallon that's not being used, so I'm thinking about maybe getting some female bettas and putting like 2 or 3 in there. I will keep posting pictures of him

My only concern about not having a filter is the white film I get at the top of my tank, so I use the filter current to keep that away, since an air stone freaks Kalamari out. Also, I just put a new background on his 3 gallon to give it more of a decorative feel. I might add the small moss ball I have in his 3 gallon tank.

I do have AQ salt, I just bought some stress coat this afternoon, wondering if I should add some to his water after his water change today, which will be in about 2 hours.
 

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I think background is good idea, just make sure he don't see his reflection. You will know what i mean. If he will flaring too much then he might sees his own reflection. I think with dark background they able to see it and some of them can even bite the tail because of that. But don't panic and i don't want to make you paranoid, not all bettas doing it. So just see how he doing.

Film that you talking about is absolutely harmless and might even disappear when you will doing regular water changes. For 3 gall you can either do 2-50% and 1-100% water changes or just 100% every 5-6 days. I do it every 6 days for my bettas in 2.5 gall tanks.

Yes you can add stress coat today. I think i mentioned that you don't need to add full dose of it since its also a water conditioner. So just add about half of the dose for the 3 gall tank

Also i don't think i mentioned about food. Try to find
http://www.bigalspets.com/betta-formula-1-mm-semi-floating-pellets-50-g.html

http://www.petco.com/product/116563...ne-_-1483889&gclid=CJj58bfU3boCFe1QOgodpWgAcA

And frozen blood worms would be nice once a week has a lot of protein and good for the immune system. I am talking about the frozen that you can find in the freezer in the store not the ones that are dried on the shelve. Oh and forgive me if i already said it before:oops: I am at work and do million stuff here and trying to be on the forum too:)

Just a few words on sorority ...i will make another post
 

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I am absolutely not experienced with sorority, never had it. Just one advice , any time you buy a fish/any live creature always quarantine it for at least 3-4 wks . Never CROSS- CONTAMINATE ANYTHING between new fish and your other betta. There is always passabilities that new fish,snake etc can be sick and show symptoms later though. Even when you buy a live plant quarantine it because its can bring ich with the water. Unless you trust your store and they don't keep the plants with the fish in the tank
I like this link just in case

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDs6Pu7w8Z0

About girls. 4 is fine.3 and under is the dangerous number. If one gets stressed , or set off just slightly she can viciously attack and even kill the other. Also be reminded that some females are just plain mean and have to be treated like males- kept separate from their own kind.
This is the link with some tips . If you will ever decide to have sorority let me know, i know a few people who are experienced with that and i will ask them to help you.

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=123796
 
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