Betta Fish Forum banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Need a photo of him showing his dorsal. How long have you had him?
Hard to get the little guy in the right position. We've had him for about 2 or 3 months and noticed the possible fin rot about a week ago, looked into it and put him in a quarantine tank yesterday
 

Attachments

· Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
Need a photo from the side showing the entire dorsal. These photos don't really show the dorsal. Something like this.
Plant Flower Petal Terrestrial plant Vegetation

While you're at it, please copy and paste this form in a reply *****PLEASE READ BEFORE POSTING: Fill out this form so.... It gives us the most important information in quick-reference form. Thank you.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Food:

What food brand do you use?
*Topfin

Do you feed flakes or pellets?
*Pellets

Freeze-dried?
*Sometimes freeze dried blood worms

How often do you feed your Betta? How much? *Every day or every other day, 3-6 pellets

Maintenance:

Before your Betta became ill how often did you perform a water change?
*About once a week for a 3 gallon bowl, he has sence been moved

What percentage of water did you change? *Anywhere from 30 to 100

What is the source of your water?
*Tap with conditioner

Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water?
* Dip out water and strain gravel

What additives do you use other than conditioner? What brand of conditioner?
*Topfin conditioner and bacteria starter

Water Parameters:
What are your water parameters? Please give exact numbers. If tested by pet store please get exact numbers. "Fine" or "Safe" won't help us help you. Important: Test your water before the regular water change; not after one.


* We were sadly under the assumption that Bettas were a tough fish, we spicificly asked for a low maintenance fish that didn't require exact ammonia and nitrite balancing. I understand that it was a mistake not to gauge his water now, I just wish he didn't haft to pay the price. We now have bought a kit to test.

Ammonia: unknown
Nitrite:unknown
Nitrate:unknown
pH:unknown
Hardness (GH):unknown
Alkalinity (KH):unknown

Symptoms and Treatment:
When did you first notice the symptoms?
*About a week ago

How has your Betta’s appearance changed?
* His top fin( Dorsal) has become nearly see threw in some spots

How has your Betta’s behavior changed?
*He's less active sence being placed in a quarantine bowl

Is your Betta still eating?
*I believe so

Have you started treating your Betta? If so, how?
*Yes, we took him out of his old aquarium and placed him in a bowl with clean water, we now have a 5 gal aquarium, filter, and heater ready for him.

Does your Betta have any history of being ill?
*Not in the time I have had him
How long have you owned your Betta?
*Roughly 2 months

Was he or she ill or suffering some sort of damage when purchased?
* It is possible, I've had Bettas before in worse set ups (as a child) and from what I rember they never got fin rot
 

Attachments

· Banned
pinky & potato
Joined
·
77 Posts
Are you sure that it wasn't thin or even missing in that part previously? To me this looks like new growth, as in it was damaged previously and is growing back or growing longer. Minimally, it's not fin rot (which is a bacterial infection). It may be fin erosion from poor water quality. I don't think that you do need to check your water frequently but definitely as a diagnostic if things go wrong. As long as you were doing a 50% partial water change in a 3 gallon bowl once a week, and siphoning from the waste at the bottom to get to that 50%, then it's physically impossible for the nitrogen to get toxic. Note that if you do more than a 50% partial water change, you're basically putting them in a new tank and will want to drip acclimate them to the new body of water. I would add some indian almond leaf (extract) to the tank to help with the healing.
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
Need the entire form. Even if you've already provided some of the information. Questionnaire was developed so all the important information is in one place for easy reference.

Without all of it all we can do is guess which is why we ask potential responders to follow these guidelines NOTICE: Guidelines for Answering Calls for Help
 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are you sure that it wasn't thin or even missing in that part previously? To me this looks like new growth, as in it was damaged previously and is growing back or growing longer. Minimally, it's not fin rot (which is a bacterial infection). It may be fin erosion from poor water quality. I don't think that you do need to check your water frequently but definitely as a diagnostic if things go wrong. As long as you were doing a 50% partial water change in a 3 gallon bowl once a week, and siphoning from the waste at the bottom to get to that 50%, then it's physically impossible for the nitrogen to get toxic. Note that if you do more than a 50% partial water change, you're basically putting them in a new tank and will want to drip acclimate them to the new body of water. I would add some indian almond leaf (extract) to the tank to help with the healing.
Thank you so much! I intend to keep looking into what may be the cause. Would you recommend Betafix for an issue like that?
 

· Banned
pinky & potato
Joined
·
77 Posts
Thank you so much! I intend to keep looking into what may be the cause. Would you recommend Betafix for an issue like that?
Bettafix, which is a weaker form of Melafix, was part of a university study. It was found to not have the benefits advertised, although it did not harm fish. Specifically, it's only effective against flukes and only when combined with Pimafix. I recommend Indian almond leaf or its extract for healing dermal issues. Specifically, I like Fritz's Dark Water. I think Russel (and I) would still like your nitrogen parameters so that we can better determine whether your water quality is causing a fin erosion issue. If you actually are doing regular water changes once a week of around 30% it's probably okay as long as you're vacuuming from the waste at the bottom. Without the vacuuming, your ammonia can start getting out of hand even with a single fish in a 3-gallon tank and doing weekly 50% changes.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bettafix, which is a weaker form of Melafix, was part of a university study. It was found to not have the benefits advertised, although it did not harm fish. Specifically, it's only effective against flukes and only when combined with Pimafix. I recommend Indian almond leaf or its extract for healing dermal issues. Specifically, I like Fritz's Dark Water. I think Russel (and I) would still like your nitrogen parameters so that we can better determine whether your water quality is causing a fin erosion issue. If you actually are doing regular water changes once a week of around 30% it's probably okay as long as you're vacuuming from the waste at the bottom. Without the vacuuming, your ammonia can start getting out of hand even with a single fish in a 3-gallon tank and doing weekly 50% changes.
I did not vacuum the gravel but when I did 100% water changes I would clean out the gravel until all waste was removed. I did that about 4 times over a 2 month period meaning roughly once every two weeks. I did about 50% water changes roughly once a week but their were times when it didn't get changed for about 2 weeks at which point I would usually do the 100% water change and clean out the gravel with tap water and a strainer
 

· Administrator
Joined
·
24,577 Posts
I thought I had the whole form. Did I miss something.?
Did you list size of tank; if it has a filter; if it has a thermometer or if he has any tank mates?

Pet stores will usually test a water sample at no charge. Make sure the tank has not been recently changed.
 

· Banned
pinky & potato
Joined
·
77 Posts
I did not vacuum the gravel but when I did 100% water changes I would clean out the gravel until all waste was removed. I did that about 4 times over a 2 month period meaning roughly once every two weeks. I did about 50% water changes roughly once a week but their were times when it didn't get changed for about 2 weeks at which point I would usually do the 100% water change and clean out the gravel with tap water and a strainer
Again, I would point out that doing a 100% water change pretty much requires you to drip acclimate your fish again or you're dodging a bullet each time you manage it without your fish suffering from osmotic stress or shock. It's also actually most dangerous to do a large percentage when you've missed your previous regular water changes because the chemistry will be so much different.

I think we can help you ensure good water quality and a safe home if you can answer the other questions. I'm ruling out fin rot (bacterial infection) based on the photos. At this time, we don't know if it's new growth or new erosion and if the water and tank are in a state to promote healing versus making things worse. I wonder why he's in a quarantine bowl. Like Russel said, does that indicate that he has tank mates? Did you use aquarium water for the quarantine tank (normally you should unless you're going to do a drip acclimation to the quarantine tank)? We still need temp and at least ammonia level and pH if not nitrite and nitrate. You said you bought a testing kit? Your quarantine tank should be floating in your heated aquarium or have its own heater. What size is the new tank/bowl? Does it have a filter? Does it have a heater, and what is the temp (preferably measured in the center)?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Firstly, I want to apologize if I come off as ignorant or annoying (like not getting every question on the form). We are extremely grateful that you guys are taking the time to respond to me and help us get Sushi better.

Sushi did not have any tank mates, I took him out of the bowl he was in and put him in a significantly smaller one, ( well under a single gallon) firstly because I assumed it was poor water quality causing this and wanted him immediately out of the bacteria or anomia that was burning/hurting him. Secondly I wanted to ensure he was easy to take pictures of and monitor as his old bowl had a few places for him to hide, where he spent most of his time. Lastly, when I googled steps to treat fin rot it suggested to lower the water temp slightly and adding salt. I was unable to get aquarium salt and sence the heater we were using didn't have a heat gauge, the only way to lower the temp was to just keep it at room temp.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Housing:

Old Tank

How many gallons is your tank?
* Roughly 3 to 4 gallons

Does it have a filter?
*No

Does it have a heater?
*Yes

What temperature is your tank?
* The heater claimed to keep it about 75 but we sadly did not check until we started setting up his new tank

Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?
*No

Does your Betta have tank mates? What kind?
*No

Housing:

New Tank( he is not in it yet)

How many gallons is your tank?
*5

Does it have a filter?
*yes

Does it have a heater?
*yes

What temperature is your tank?
*currently about 78

Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?
*No. unless the slight water flow caused by the filter

Does your Betta have tank mates? What kind?

*no


Housing:

Quarantine Bowl

How many gallons is your tank?
* extremely small, i can provide a picture but it is well under a single gallon.

Does it have a filter?
*No

Does it have a heater?
*no

What temperature is your tank?
* about 70-75

Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration?
* no

Does your Betta have tank mates? What kind?
*no


Food:

What food brand do you use?
*Topfin

Do you feed flakes or pellets?
*Pellets

Freeze-dried?
*Sometimes freeze dried blood worms

How often do you feed your Betta? How much? *Every day or every other day, 3-6 pellets

Maintenance:

Before your Betta became ill how often did you perform a water change?
*About once a week for a 3 gallon bowl, he has sence been moved

What percentage of water did you change? *Anywhere from 30 to 100

What is the source of your water?
*Tap with conditioner

Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water?
* Dip out water and strain gravel

What additives do you use other than conditioner? What brand of conditioner?
*Topfin conditioner and bacteria starter

Water Parameters:
What are your water parameters? Please give exact numbers. If tested by pet store please get exact numbers. "Fine" or "Safe" won't help us help you. Important: Test your water before the regular water change; not after one.


* We were sadly under the assumption that Bettas were a tough fish, we spicificly asked for a low maintenance fish that didn't require exact ammonia and nitrite balancing. I understand that it was a mistake not to gauge his water now, I just wish he didn't haft to pay the price. We now have bought a kit to test.

Ammonia: unknown
Nitrite:unknown
Nitrate:unknown
pH:unknown
Hardness (GH):unknown
Alkalinity (KH):unknown

Symptoms and Treatment:
When did you first notice the symptoms?
*About a week ago

How has your Betta’s appearance changed?
* His top fin( Dorsal) has become nearly see threw in some spots

How has your Betta’s behavior changed?
*He's less active sence being placed in a quarantine bowl

Is your Betta still eating?
*I believe so

Have you started treating your Betta? If so, how?
*Yes, we took him out of his old aquarium and placed him in a bowl with clean water, we now have a 5 gal aquarium, filter, and heater ready for him.

Does your Betta have any history of being ill?
*Not in the time I have had him
How long have you owned your Betta?
*Roughly 2 months

Was he or she ill or suffering some sort of damage when purchased?
* It is possible, I've had Bettas before in worse set ups (as a child) and from what I rember they never got fin rot.



I will test his old water tomorrow for anomia and the next day I will be able to buy a full test kit, at this time I only have the anomia test. The quarantine bowl is not in his old tank or in his new heated take but they are about the same temperature. Should I just introduce him to his new 5 gallon tank instead of keeping him in the smaller bowl? Most everything I found when googling treatments recommended placing them in new, clean, and conditioned water. I feel horrible I've made so many mistakes.
 

· Banned
pinky & potato
Joined
·
77 Posts
Honestly, I think you're doing great. The only dangerous thing is the huge water changes. Although with the water changes, it seemed likely that water quality wasn't an issue, but there are some caveats. I do think that for now it would be better to put him in the new tank with a heater. I would drip acclimate him though. Basically fill a container half way with the quarantine water and float him on top of the new aquarium. Add a teaspoon of the aquarium water to the container every 15 mins until it's full. Helps to have a container with a lid with a hole so that he doesn't just jump into the new aquarium while you're acclimating him. The containers that they come in at petco are good for this. You don't need aquarium salt, just an iodine free salt in your kitchen will work like sea salt, or most salt grinders. Salt can help prevent secondary infection of the damaged skin, but it doesn't have the same healing properties as indian almond leaf, but if it's all you have it's better than nothing. In general, fin erosion and fin damage are caused by poor water quality, tank mates, and dangerous decor (too small of holes or sharp edges). In general, healing occurs with good water quality and indian almond leaf can speed up the process. For the size of your tank, I'd add 3/4 of a tablespoon of salt if you're going to add it, which will end up being around 0.1% solution. If you have old pictures of your fish, I still think you're likely to find that he had a tear or a gap in his fin and that it's healing. If it is erosion and getting worse instead of better, it's hard to say what's causing it. It may actually be fin rot in an early stage. Stock up on API Fin & Body Cure just in case.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top