Betta Fish Forum banner

101 - 106 of 106 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #101
Your tanks are so pretty DZIM.

I am keeping the bubbler for now. He loves it, at least it seems that way. He love his Indian leaf, I cannot tell you how much he loves this leaf. He sucks up the air that collects under it, hangs out under it, all day long. i will test water again tomorrow. I didn't test the nitrates today when I did it. I was confused by the test, but I will read it further and figure it out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
One thing I've learned is that bettas love top cover. I'm in the process of figuring out a DIY method for floating artificial plant leaves on the surface for those of us that don't do live plants. I plan to try rigging up a sort of raft from airline tubing and attaching fake plant stems to it... we'll see how it goes.

Bettas love all sorts of cover though. I had one of my fish in a mostly bare open water tank when I was still new to understanding betta behavior, and I saw an amazing transformation in his behavior once I filled the tank up with foliage. He became much more active and hid a lot less. More cover = more activity. A lot of people make the assumption that more hiding places means they'll never see their fish, but it's actually 100% the reverse.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #103
So, I have come for an update.

My water levels today before about 30% water change. Seems ammonia has gone up. Added more QuickStart and BettaSafe, but my Seachem is not here yet. Anything else I can do? Seachem will be here Monday it says.



So, also got some plants and a floating log, my new heater, my new thermometer, and figured out how to rig the bubble thing to the floor using a suction cup.

So, I think it looks very pretty if I do say so myself.



How do I know the heater is on. I let it acclimate this time 20 minutes, maybe even 30 while I was arranging plants and testing water.

I really have to move this thing down to my level. Had my son move it down for me so I could work on it, then the cords were not long enough, ugh, then he left and I had to put it back up and almost dropped it. Afraid to move it down to cat level, though. I don't know. Every few day water removals and additions are not going to work out with it up there though.

I ordered a 16 cord thing from Amazon because between his cords and my computer cords, and my crafting light cords, I have cords everywhere and I ran out of plugs on my power strips. Driving me crazy.

Ordered this and hopefully it will make my cords nice and neat. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H5E96L2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,925 Posts
You can skip testing the PH, so long as you are not playing around with it, and you aren't he'll adjust to the level it is in the water so that's one you don't have to worry about.

The ammonia level is toxic. What I would do is test the water straight out of your tap, I'm suspecting it has ammonium which is safe for fish, BUT does register on the API test. If there is ammonium in the water, then ammonia in the tank, it will make the reading higher. Still short on sleep so I'll write out some instructions and number them to make sure I"m clear, don't ramble, and don't miss anything.

1. Test the tap water, and if it shows ammonia record how much.

2. Test the tank water, again write down how much ammonia.

3. If the tap had ammonia subtract that number from the number from the tank. Whatever your left with is how much ammonia is actually in the tank.

4. If the ammonia in the tank is .25 or higher you need to do another water change. If it's .25 you can do a 25% change if it's higher then .25 then do a 50% change.

5. In 3 hours test the tank water again. and follow the directions in #4.

6. Repeat #'s 5 and 4 until the ammonia is down to 0.

I really do think that your tap water is part of the culprit, unless you are overfeeding him and there is uneaten food in the bottom of the tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
82 Posts
Discussion Starter #105
Just did my water from tap and then again in the tank.

The tap was 0, so seems my tap water is fine.

The water in the tank was between 0.50 and 1.0 ppm but probably closer to 1.0.

I did 30-40% water change today after the test in the above post.

I do not think I overfeed him.

He doesn't eat pellets at all, spits them out, so he gets flakes, a pinch twice a day. Today, for the first time ever, I fed him a pinch of the frozen blood worms. I see no visible dirt in the tank. Again brand new tank just set up yesterday.

New tank just set up yesterday so no dirt in it.

I put Quick Start in after the reading from before and BettaSafe after the testing.

Speaking of testing, thinking of getting the strips. This liquid thing is a pain in the buttocks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
332 Posts
I think it's time to start a new thread to get some advice from the forum on cycling a small tank. There are probably some users that can walk you through this better than I can. That said, ammonia spikes during the cycle are normal. Not safe, but normal. It means the cycle is starting to establish. It should start going down in time. Once you get the prime, dose it every day until your readings show 0 ammonia and rising nitrates. 0 ammonia followed by a nitrate spike means the cycle has finished.
 
101 - 106 of 106 Posts
Top