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Male Vieltail named Keebo, new female named Kami.
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My mom surprise bought me a betta from a local shop since the one I ordered died. It's a tiny little blue lady, and I don't know what to identify her as yet in terms of type. The housing is temporary as we're waiting on money for moving and then upgrading stuff afterward. She'll move up to my fluval spec (5 gal) once she's big enough, and my big guy will move into the new 9 gal.
So I noticed she had her caudal fin (tail fin) clamped and I knew something was wrong. I've chosen to identify it as Ich or velvet, but I'm totally unsure.
She's still super active, she'll eat bloodworms but won't consume my pellets (I pick small ones for her). She'll eat them before spitting it out.
I need to act fast because I know she's at bigger risk due to her size.I was totally shut down by another forum but I know something is wrong. She's completely active and responsive, and hard to get a photo of because of size.

Form told to fill:
How many gallons is your tank? 3
Does it have a filter? Y
Does it have a heater? Y
What temperature is your tank? 77 degrees F
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? Not atm (not permanent setup)
Does your Betta have tank mates? What kind? none

What food brand do you use? OmegaOne pellets & freeze dried bloodworms
Do you feed flakes or pellets? Pellets
Freeze-dried? Yes
How often do you feed your Betta? How much? Twice daily with 1 pellet (she's tiny)

Before your Betta became ill how often did you perform a water change? She’s brand new, so none yet.
What percentage of water did you change? /
What is the source of your water? Sink
Do you vacuum the substrate or just dip out water? I vacuum
What additives do you use? What brand of conditioner? API conditioner I think

I used a test strip from Tetra (bad i know, but money is tight
Ammonia: /
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
pH: 6.8-7.2
Hardness (GH): 300
Alkalinity (KH): 80

Symptoms and Treatment:
When did you first notice the symptoms? 3 Hours after purchase
How has your Betta’s appearance changed? No
How has your Betta’s behavior changed? No
Is your Betta still eating? Some, but yes.
Have you started treating your Betta? If so, how? I was told to add aquarium salt adequate to tank size
Does your Betta have any history of being ill? Unsure
How long have you owned your Betta? Less than 3 days
Was he or she ill or suffering some sort of damage when purchased? Yes


Super Moderator
18,320 Posts
Welcome to the Forum!

If she's a baby, you'll need to do 3 x per week half-gallon water changes while she's growing. I understand babies emit growth stunting hormones so you want to keep the water as free of them as possible. I hope someone with more experience will chime in and correct me if I'm in error.

I would not feed her freeze-dried food. Instead, soak the pellets in garlic juice. Sometimes fish are fed other than pellets so it can take them a while to recognize it as food. That's why soaking in the garlic juice.

I would suggest, when the budget allows, that you get frozen "Mini" Bloodworms; actually mosquito larva. Or, if you can't find those, regular Bloodworms.

You can also add Indian Almond Leaves or Rooibos Tea to her water. Make a strong "tea" of either and add to her water until it is tinted. You boy would enjoy that, too. I believe you can find Rooibos in almost any store. It should have no additives; it is naturally decaffeinated but double check the label.

Oh, I do not see Ich or Velvet. For Velvet, you would need to shine a flashlight on her.

8 Posts
When you say she is small.. or a baby.. just how small are we talking here? Baby bettas and even juvenile age bettas can be easily stressed depending on how they were grown out. That being said, if she is still active and eating things can't be all that bad... I use Kapacha Tree Leaves aka Indian Almond Leaves for my bettas. Some of them don't like it, and it is fairly easy to tell when you have one that is all about the clean and clear look lol. Besides the leaf... I also make a tea from the Indian almond leaves, I make it fairly strong, but I wean them from the leaves down to the tea. I mean lets be real here.. At some point in the life of the betta I kinda wanna see them right?

I can't really add much at all to the post already put up, I am just kind of bored and looking for other ideas than my own regarding a certain behavior pattern that I notice a lot of bettas display.
Your fish here in the pictures doesn't have ich or velvet. The pictures aren't any too clear for an old man like me to see well but she looks to be a dragon scale betta. I am in the minority with this theory, but I have had too many bettas to count or even guess at that number just over the past 10 yrs. Dragon Scale Bettas (with the highest majority being female in my case) often have the genetic anomaly that makes them so sought after, backfire on them. It is similar to how bettas that have the marble gene, dominant or recessive, change color from slightly to totally several times throughout their lifetime. The dragon scale gene continues to mutate or mottle up thru the life of the betta. Most of the time... well half of the time anyway... it is harmless and just gives your fish character. It was the OTHER half of the time that made me take notice. I was trying to get a Doubletail and Tripletail Superman betta. In proper form they have brilliant blue dragon scale bodies with OHM red fins. My females, (regardless of the source) or at least 75% of them, kept developing cancerous tumors. After I had lost 15 females easily to these tumors I got to where I could look from the nose outward toward the caudal fin and see the tumors not yet showing. From there I would buy females and keep only those that I didn't see any hint of impending cancer. The rest I gave away or traded to local pet shop. Once The Superman color turned out like that I began paying attention and IMHO Dragon Scale Bettas are their own worse enemy.
Why share my Superman story?
Those white or lighter flecked patches on the fish you have are asymptomatic of the normal and continual mutation or change in scale design of the Dragon Scale, OR, this female is fresh from her grow out brood and should have been pulled from the group long before now. Those are two vastly different things... but I just can't tell which it might be with the picture... I lean more toward the mottled design of the dragon scale genetics doing it's thing myself simply because I see very little if any, damage to her fins. Bettas love a nice rare fin sandwich so in most cases the fins are torn much sooner than scale adhesions. I say follow yer GUT... if yer instincts tell you that you need to monitor her like a hawk then do it. Then at the first sign of a change zip back in here and let these guys know.

Side Note.. every time I read how much you guys feed your bettas there is a brief moment in time where I am almost willing to consider only feeding my bettas 3 pellets once a day... Ok no not really it just sounded funny in my head. When I eat my fish eat. I feed everything under the sun but I have stopped feeding live bugs. It is their natural food, but we haven't seen a betta splendens from nature in forever. Live Black worms is the fav. and it can't be beat for conditioning before and after breeding. Live brine... and any of the worms I may have a culture of. I prefer frozen over freeze dried in most cases (depending on the processing) I have 5 different pellets the bettas are kinda meh about pellets... they get them twice a week of they go hungry those two days. My flake variety is insanity at a new level. Bettas love single med size earthworm flakes, blackworm flakes, and brine/mysis shrimp and garlic flakes.

8,877 Posts
Clamped fins can be due to stress. They're not always a sign of disease. Ich is very obvious, and able to be easily seen with the naked eye on even small-bodied fish. Velvet is less so, as it tends to start in the gills and in early infection, it can be difficult to differentiate between natural iridescence and velvet unless you are familiar with the disease.

As someone who had a particularly virulent strain of velvet go through their fish room, velvet will show symptoms other than clamped fins. The fish will be lethargic, likely lose their appetite, their colouring will dull, their breathing will be faster because of the damage to their gills, and in severe infections, they will scratch themselves to the point of bleeding and injury trying to ease the discomfort caused by the parasite.

So if your fish is exhibiting none of these symptoms, it's very unlikely to be velvet.

If it does turn out that your fish is suffering from velvet, I would treat with a combination of Seachem Cupramine and darkness (by this I mean put blanket or towel over the tank). I tried many treatments, and this was the only one that proved safe for fish of any age, and that eradicated the parasite completely from my tanks.

Male Vieltail named Keebo, new female named Kami.
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
While I now know she's disease free, this is extremely good advice!! Thank you
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