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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Housing
What size is your tank? 3 gallons
What temperature is your tank? 74 degrees
Does your tank have a filter? no ( can get on next month )
Does your tank have an air stone or other type of aeration? yes
Is your tank heated? no (can get one next month )
What tank mates does your betta fish live with? none

Food
What type of food do you feed your betta fish? Tetra BettaMin tropical medley
How often do you feed your betta fish? a small pinch once a day

Maintenance

How often do you perform a water change? twice a week
What percentage of the water do you change when you perform a water change? 50%
What type of additives do you add to the water when you perform a water change? Tetra Betta Safe

Water Parameters:
Have you tested your water? If so, what are the following parameters?

Ammonia:
Nitrite:
Nitrate:
pH:
Hardness:
Alkalinity:

Symptoms and Treatment
How has your betta fish's appearance changed? he was all black with a single blue fin, now he looks like he's trying to turn steel with blue fins but he stopped a few days ago and when i shine a flashlight on him, the glill flaps look like the scales are gold and he has like this goldish shimmer to his fins a a bit on his body
How has your betta fish's behavior changed? it hasn't, he still eats just about all the food I give him, and swims around the tank, plays with the bubbles, and nudges the thermometer
When did you start noticing the symptoms? when he stopped changing color
Have you started treating your fish? If so, how? no, i'm not sure if he has velvet
Does your fish have any history of being ill? I think he had ammonia poisioning when i got him from Walmart
How old is your fish (approximately)? idk, Walmart didn;t say

I love my little buddy and if he does have it, my parents can;t afford the things for it so i will have to go asking friends for help or rehome him with someone close to me, no shipping him. I've seen on another site, nippysfish, that another Betta had the gold on his face and gills, but the person said that Betta was fine.
 

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A picture would help us a lot... What you are describing could very well be velvet. It should look like he is dusted in a gold powder, like this-
Vertebrate Fish Fish Marine biology Feeder fish

Does he look like that?

Velvet needs to photosynthesize so the first thing you should do is move his tank to a very dark place like a closet. You should also have a heater, and raise the temperature to ~82-86 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
he doesn;t look like that at all, i have a pic that kinda shows you on his body what I am talking about with the shimmer.

Sadly we can;t afford anything like that right now, I'd have to ask a friend.
 

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sorry for that bump..
How long you have him? For 3 gall without filter you need to do 2-50% and one full water change a week.
If the scales are gold and he has like this goldish shimmer to his fins- If it new symptoms and he didn't have it before it can be a velvet.
What temperature you have in the room that you have him in? Go to pet store and buy aquarium salt. It about $4 . You need the temp about 84* . The temperature will speed up parasite cycle and help them to fall faster.
Salt will dehydrate them .
So go buy aqarium salt as soon as you can. Pre mix it first in the separate clean container and make sure it dissolved, no salt crystals left. Do full water change. Make sure you acclimate your betta to the new water, it very important that you not shock him with drastic difference of the temperature an chemistry. And while you don't have salt or medication i would do 2-50% water changes about 3 hrs apart and then continue wit 100% water changes daily.

Acclimation instructions:
I will be back i want to find the link and copy the instructions...



Edit OMG I am always late, i am glad you guys helping . I didn't see any of the replies. Just busy in the house. Thank you everyone who is helping. I just will be back with acclimation instuctions
 

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1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
1. can have betta in the changing cup with about 15% of the water and keep adding small amount of the new water about every 5 min for about 5-6 times -this way you he will get used to the temperature:)

2. Note the temperature of the water.

Using a plastic cup, scoop him, along with some of his water, into the cup.
Clean out the tank. Refill with water at the SAME temp. Be sure to add the correct amount of water conditioner.
Float his cup in the tank for about 15 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
Add a SMALL amount of NEW water to the cup. (Several tablespoons, or about 1.5 ounces.)
Let his cup float for about 10 min. (Study during this time. If he sits longer, it's OK.)
If the cup starts to fill too much, remove a SMALL amount of water from the cup. Discard it.
Repeat steps 5-7, until about an hour has passed. (If he sits longer because you're studying, that's OK.)
Gently release him into the tank.

3. To do a water change, use a little cup like a plastic solo cup - this cup must be only for him and have never been used with soap or other chems. Scoop him up in this cup (keep him in the cup about 1/4 full of water - it doesn't need to be much because he won't be in it for long) and leave him in the cup while you change his water. To do the 50% use a turkey baster - dedicated only to him that has never seen soap or chems - and drag it through the gravel and try to suck as much of the poop out as possible, in addition to 50% of the water. Use a thermometer under the running tap to get it to be the same temp as the water that is normally in his tank. When the thermometer says the flowing tap is the right temp, fill back up his tank. At this point, add the conditioner (dose for how much water you change - if you change half the water you add half gallon worth of conditioner, If you do a 100% water change dose for the full gallon change). Float his plastic cup with him in it in the new water. Slowly add a couple tablespoons of the new water into his cup every 10 minutes for at least an hour. Finally, dump him in gently but try to get as little of the old cup water back into the tank as possible. When you do the weekly 100% you will do mostly the same thing except empty his tank fully and rinse everything in it very well under warm water but never use soaps or chemicals. Once it's fully cleaned/rinsed you can refill it and repeat the cup/acclimate phase.

4. When I change the water I put him in the cup I got him in then I take everything out of the tank, rinse everything with warm tap water. Then I put everything back in the tank, fill it with dechlorinated new water, and then turn the heater on. When the tank water is the same as the cup water , then take the dirty cup water out and a little at a time and put clean tank water in the cup. After that I put the cup in the tank and he swims out.
I use the cup he came in, I rinsed it with hot water. I know how to change the water, I've done it 3 times already. We've had fish before.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
sorry for that bump..
How long you have him? For 3 gall without filter you need to do 2-50% and one full water change a week.
If the scales are gold and he has like this goldish shimmer to his fins- If it new symptoms and he didn't have it before it can be a velvet.
What temperature you have in the room that you have him in? Go to pet store and buy aquarium salt. It about $4 . You need the temp about 84* . The temperature will speed up parasite cycle and help them to fall faster.
Salt will dehydrate them .
So go buy aqarium salt as soon as you can. Pre mix it first in the separate clean container and make sure it dissolved, no salt crystals left. Do full water change. Make sure you acclimate your betta to the new water, it very important that you not shock him with drastic difference of the temperature an chemistry. And while you don't have salt or medication i would do 2-50% water changes about 3 hrs apart and then continue wit 100% water changes daily.

Acclimation instructions:
I will be back i want to find the link and copy the instructions...



Edit OMG I am always late, i am glad you guys helping . I didn't see any of the replies. Just busy in the house. Thank you everyone who is helping. I just will be back with acclimation instuctions
Idk if it's new, I'm only just noticing it. i've only had him a week
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I've also stated we are in a bad spot financially. Car dealer tricked my parents into getting a lease. Also if you look at his body in the pic, you can see the dirty goldish color surrounding the blue in his scales.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We can get one next month, for now I'm keeping my a/c off which makes it unbearably hot for me in my room but keeps his tank at least 74
 

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Honestly it looks like his regular iridescence to me from that picture.

But yes to cure velvet you can either use meds or use AQ salt at 3 teaspoons per gallon (dissolved first) and get the heat up to 85-86 and then keep all the lights off, basically you can throw a towel over his tank and it'd be good because velvet uses light to grow :)

That stinks about the lease! I understand about not being in a good spot for the moment either :-(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Honestly it looks like his regular iridescence to me from that picture.

But yes to cure velvet you can either use meds or use AQ salt at 3 teaspoons per gallon (dissolved first) and get the heat up to 85-86 and then keep all the lights off, basically you can throw a towel over his tank and it'd be good because velvet uses light to grow :)

That stinks about the lease! I understand about not being in a good spot for the moment either :-(
I thought so too, he acts perfectly fine, but even so i have his light off. I'm going to see if a friend will let me borrow money, since I'm in the process of trying to heal from physical illness and looking for a job for myself.
 

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Even if they do have velvet, generally they do act fine so there's always a chance but he will look like he's got raised golden dust on him. This looks like it's flat against his scales similar to just having a golden iridescence which isn't uncommon :)

But yes, I think the first thing you should do is buy that heater. I suggest getting a Hydor Theo if you can, here's a link to the cheapest place: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3743+11368&pcatid=11368

The 25 Watt one, it's a mini heater that ACTUALLY work's. This way you can change the setting when you need to like if you were battle Ich or Velvet, both needs temps up in 85-86 because the parasite cannot survive at those temps which makes it easier to kill of :-D But either way get one that adjusts rather than one that is preset, I did that and now I've got to spend more money to buy adjustable ones so it's just easier to get it now and spend a little bit extra than have to buy whole new heaters later one lol

One thing though, especially will smaller tanks. Test the heater out in a bucket or container of water over night with a thermometer (glass ones are a dollar something at wal-mart) to make sure it can hold a steady temp. And so you don't fry your fish, start at the lowest temp it can go and then slowly work your way up to the 78-80 degree mark where it should be at. Because it's technically rated for 3-10 gallons, in smaller tanks it overcompensates so it won't actually be heating at what it says. That's the importance of having a thermometer :)

I hope you heal well and heal fast! I know they aren't fun, I'm still healing from a back injury myself :-( but patience and listening to your doctor/physical therapist will do wonders for you :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Even if they do have velvet, generally they do act fine so there's always a chance but he will look like he's got raised golden dust on him. This looks like it's flat against his scales similar to just having a golden iridescence which isn't uncommon :)

But yes, I think the first thing you should do is buy that heater. I suggest getting a Hydor Theo if you can, here's a link to the cheapest place: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3743+11368&pcatid=11368

The 25 Watt one, it's a mini heater that ACTUALLY work's. This way you can change the setting when you need to like if you were battle Ich or Velvet, both needs temps up in 85-86 because the parasite cannot survive at those temps which makes it easier to kill of :-D But either way get one that adjusts rather than one that is preset, I did that and now I've got to spend more money to buy adjustable ones so it's just easier to get it now and spend a little bit extra than have to buy whole new heaters later one lol

One thing though, especially will smaller tanks. Test the heater out in a bucket or container of water over night with a thermometer (glass ones are a dollar something at wal-mart) to make sure it can hold a steady temp. And so you don't fry your fish, start at the lowest temp it can go and then slowly work your way up to the 78-80 degree mark where it should be at. Because it's technically rated for 3-10 gallons, in smaller tanks it overcompensates so it won't actually be heating at what it says. That's the importance of having a thermometer :)

I hope you heal well and heal fast! I know they aren't fun, I'm still healing from a back injury myself :-( but patience and listening to your doctor/physical therapist will do wonders for you :)
Thank you very much, I hope you get well soon
 

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Thank you as well!

If anything does change on your boy though, be sure to either start a new thread about it or comment back here so we can help :-D
 

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agree with lilnaugim . Just want to add something. Keep eye on him. I think if it really a velvet it will get worse and you will see more symptoms. Also a lot of time if betta has velvet , he will dart , try to scratch his body on objects. So i think if in indeed a velvet he will develop new symptoms.
I would also do more water changes. You have him in 3 gall tank without filter. So i would recommend to do 2-50% and one full water changes a week. And acclimate him the way i posted instructions for you in my previous post.
And if you can at least buy aquarium salt so you can give him first help if he really will get worse.
If you think he getting worse and you still don't have salt or med's i would do daily water changes.

I can mail the medications to you actually if you want. Just let me know if you want. Pm to me your address.
 
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