[X skully X]

I’m so sorry about your guy, I can’t think of what meds would be useful since no one knows exactly what is going on with him. Any suggestions on meds could cause more harm than good. Only thing I would suggest differently is soaking his food in the vitachem instead of dropping into the tank water. I know it says that in the bottle but it would be better utilized if ingested. In fact most antibiotics used in the water column do very little. Mixing the meds with food have better results or so I have read. kanaplex is most recommended because it is better absorbed through the skin. Honestly… I have very little success treating my fish for ailments, I’m terrible at diagnosis! I don’t offer advice in the emergency threads anymore for that very reason. I’m well read on common fish diseases but personal experience is very little. I do agree that if it’s lack of nutrients (for whatever odd reason, your care seems great btw) that would make his immune system weak. Even with medications a weak immune response will keep causing issues. I sincerely hope he makes a turn around with added meals. The best I can offer is that he didn’t get sick suddenly and he won’t flourish suddenly either. It will take time for him to bounce back. Big hugs to you! I know these things are never easy 💜

 

[X skully X]

Yep keeping it the fridge is perfectly fine for a few days.
If it turns a weird off color then throw it out. 👍🏻

 

[X skully X]

I do notice that white scaled bettas tend to grow tumors or cysts. At least the majority of those concerns posted here on the forum are either white or heavy scaled blues. Hard to say what it could be exactly. As a reference photo for others here is a picture of him from when you first joined the forum so people can see what you are talking about. located directly in front of his dorsal fin. And a link to the post showing his fins getting shorter and the opinions given was fin biting at that time for anyone who may see this post for the first time and feel the need to chime in.

Fin rot please help!!!

Hi, I’ve just subscribed to this forum because I’m currently panicking. I just noticed my white opal betta has some slight dark coloring on his fins and they look much less full than they used to. I am going to buy some aquarium salt and going to try salt dips, as I don’t want to add it directly...

www.bettafish.com

I’m glad he is doing better than before. Hopefully this lump stops growing. The kanaplex is for gram negative and gram positive bacterial infections. It won’t help with the lump that I know of, but IF it is a fluid filled cyst and bursts it would help clear up any infection that an open sore may get. The down side is medications like that can make a weak fish even weaker. Not what you were hoping to hear but I felt it was best to be truthful about what could happen with the lump getting larger. So sorry you’re going through this.

 

[X skully X]

Aquarium salt shouldn’t be used for longer than a 10 day period. I don’t believe using it would make things worse or effect him badly. I’ll leave that choice up to you. If you think he is doing better than I would keep doing what you are doing. You shouldn’t feel like it’s your fault. Not every fish is the same. Some do fine on feeding once a day and some need more meals spaced out throughout the day. Some fish look completely healthy and die unexpectedly with no signs of problems. Some bettas live in terrible conditions for years and keep trucking along and I’ve seen betta fish in fantastic set ups with the best care deteriorate quickly with no explanation. Keeping fish can be difficult. Just keep doing your best and find comfort in the knowledge that you are doing what you can. I appreciate that you ask questions and make an effort to learn. It’s more than most do for their fish 💜

 

[X skully X]

If the lump bursts you will see it. There will be no mistaking it or second guessing what you are looking at. Fingers crossed it won’t come to that. I watched a man baby a betta back to health that had several lumps and lived for a few years with the lumps with no problem. I’ve also seen lumps recede so don’t give up hope yet
I should note that those were not my fish and not my experiences. The fish family youtubers uplift each other a lot on that platform. They share a lot of their personal experiences and talk to everyone on live streams that I’ve been a part of. Saved some of my sanity during the first year of the pandemic

 

[X skully X]

Kanaplex will kill beneficial bacteria. I would remove the filter cartridge especially if it has carbon (most filter inserts do indeed have carbon) any carbon will filter out medication. On the occasions I’ve used kanaplex or any powder meds I put directly into the tank, it will dissolve and disburse into the water column. Follow the 48 hour directions given on the package. If you have prime conditioner you can add two drops a day to bind any ammonia that builds up while the filter is out. A better solution would be a hospital tank so you don’t disrupt your cycle in the main tank. You could put your filter cartridge into a plastic bag with tank water to try and save your BB but I’m not sure how long it will survive without moving water. That’s 6 days of treatment so….

 

[X skully X]

Ok I had to go back and look at your tank size. Real quick and my own bottle of kanaplex lol. If you can find a tote or plastic bucket that is 5 gallons you can use that as a hospital. Just take the heater from your main tank for the hospital and put it back when you’re done with treatment. The plants should not suffer too much from a temp change and the meds shouldn’t effect the plants either. Luckily the doses for kanaplex is for 5 gallons for each leveled scoop that they provide with the kanaplex bottle, most powder meds are measured for 10 gallons so no need for guessing doses in this instance. Hope that helps!

 

[X skully X]

Here is a pic of the scoop, just be careful when opening as it can spill. Wash your hands really well afterwards and make sure to wipe up any spilled powder. Don’t breath in any of this stuff.

 

[X skully X]

I should add that you need to keep meds in a cool place. Not the fridge or anything but just a cooler part of the house. After opening the bottle put the whole thing in a ziploc bag or keep it in a tubberware for freshness.

 

[X skully X]

You can add whatever you want to the hospital tank. I like to put 1 tall silk plant for resting and cover so the fish isn’t stressed. I don’t personally think you need an air stone or anything except a heater. I find a regular bucket works well. Go to your local hardware store and get a 5 gallon bucket if you don’t already have one. It’s cold where I am so I wouldn’t leave it in the floor if you don’t have carpet as the heater will have to work harder to keep temps up. I have cold floors, but in the summer it’s no big deal. Guess it depends on your house…

 

[X skully X]

Yeah the critter keeper would work but… you will have to watch water temp if your heater isn’t adjustable and not use a full scoop measured for 5 gallons.

 

[X skully X]

You don’t need to do water changes just 2 drops of prime every day to bind ammonia. Looking at the seachem site right now and it states that it won’t disrupt the filter cycle after all! That doesn’t actually make sense to me personally since some meds do indeed kill off bb in the filter? Again that’s up to you.

 

[X skully X]

No worries, I don’t mind answering questions and if I don’t know something I will tell you rather than act like I know what I’m talking about 😂
If you do end up having to use the meds and have questions again don’t hesitate to ask! If you finish a full treatment and are unsure if he needs another round come on back and post some pictures and let us know how he is doing. I’ll do my best to help if I can.

 

[X skully X]

my filter has carbon as well

Goodness that slipped my mind, I’m so used to my sponge filters. Thanks for reminding me, I need it every once in awhile. This is why questions are a good good thing!

 

[X skully X]

So I really don’t need a filter or air stone of any kind in the hospital tank?

As long as you have the prime to bind the ammonia every single day at the same time of day. I don’t go over 24 hours before I add again. What I found directly from the seachem site:
Prime® will bind up those compounds for up to 48 hours. If they are still present after that time frame, they are released back into the water, unless Prime® is re-dosed accordingly. Also, if your ammonia or nitrite levels are increasing within a 24-hour period, Prime® can be re-dosed every 48 hours.

 

[X skully X]

After digging up info on API site and Seachem it doesn’t appear that API PH up (sodium carbonate) with have any adverse reactions with kanaplex. It’s also shouldn’t neutralize the kanaplex in any way and vice versa.

 

[X skully X]

I would hold off on the stress coat while medicating, I don’t think you need the salt and the antibiotics. You could start with salt and if it doesn’t seem to help then move on to the kanaplex.

 

[X skully X]

Well the kanaplex is absorbed through the skin and gills and the stress coat has aloe that coats the fish so I would not use the stress coat just to be sure that he can absorb as much kanaplex as possible. The vitachem anytime you want that is good stuff! I really like vitachem it won’t mess with anything you’re doing in the hospital tank any extra vitamins he is getting will certainly help him along his weight gaining. I’m still hoping you won’t have to do any of that so fingers crossed!

 

[X skully X]

Nope, just keep up with the prime to neutralize the ammonia. The goal is to keep I’m in the tank for treatment and then back to his original tank to recover

 

[X skully X]

His poor dorsal fin 🙁
I wonder if this growth is why is dorsal fin is shrinking to nothing? Wish I could tell you for sure what is going on but i have no idea