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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Oh wait those are eggs lol

so i decided to try my most promising pair again and after 12 failed tries with different pairs, my pair embraced and filled the nest with eggs. the nest is about 8in X 3in and all i see is a few hundred little white dots sitting beneath the bubbles

now iv had problems with this male eating the eggs in the nest before and was advised to remove him after touching up the nest.. so i figured id give it a try

so now i have a bubblenest full of eggs and honestly not sure what to expect.. that is where all yoou wonderful betta breeders come into play, can you help me with some questions i have?

-what are some problems i may have before and after the eggs hatch?
-what if they dont hatch?
-i have bbs, krill, decaps, micro worms and vinegar eels, whats the best to start them off on?
-i have snails in the tank, will they affect it in any way?


basically iv done a ton of research and know what "should" happen... but we all know that what should happen and what does are rarely the same thing so i want to compare my book knowledge of eggs and fry, to the wisdom and experience everyone else has.. any advice or tips will be appreciated <3

thank you and wish me luck on my eggs/ possible fry
 

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If your planning to remove the male before the eggs hatched you might wanna do an artificial hatching, if your just going to remove the male without doing so, your eggs might not hatched because the reason why your male should be there is to clean the eggs every so often cause it will get attacked by mold.

First 2 days for me was hard cuase my first spawn died and all the fry dissolved. 2nd tme was ok, i have left my male for about7 to 10 days i believed, alot of fry and eggs have been eaten mainly because the eggs were unfertilized and the fry must have been too weak to survive. If your eggs didn't hatched in about 3 days then you might want to recondition and try it again.

For the first 3-7 days, if you have infusoria they can live with it if not, for the first 2-3 days they should live off by eating their egg sac. Vinegar eels and micro worms are a good starting live fry food, bbs i would wait till they're mouth is big enough to actually fit it in their mouth. You shold also consider that feeding microworms may cause defects such as missing ventrals. On the other hand, bbs may result in SBD and bloatedness.

Snails works well in the fry tank, they won't bother with your fry but they would eat the dead ones and uneaten food. They also promote the growth of infusoria in the tank.

I hope i answered all your questions.
 

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Congrats......

When I have a known egg eater and need to artificial hatch the eggs-I either remove the male as careful as possible so not to disturb the nest causing the eggs to fall and allow them to hatch in the spawning tank or I will use a small container and allow the eggs and nest to flow in it and then float it in the spawning tank or heated tank-since I have lots of live plants and usually the nest is under water lettuce anyway-I will have live plants in my artificial hatch container-I also cover it with plastic veggie wrap-

If I had to harvest the eggs the same day they spawned-I wait 24h and then add 1 common snail-a small one-this snail will first eat any eggs that are decaying or not viable on the bottom of the container-then its starts on the ones in the nest-once the snails runs out of non viable/fungus eggs it will start on healthy one-this is why I wait 24h and limit it to 1 small common snail-snails like decaying stuff first or at least that has been my experience......
Usually I will get about 75-80% success on the artificial hatch-higher if I allow the male to tend to them longer-but with known eggs eater you don't have a choice...

I give my breeders 3 chances-sometimes they eat eggs because they are not fertile to start or something is wrong-and sometimes if the male is disturbed too much they will eat the eggs-instinct-the thinking that its better for them to get the protein so they will have energy to spawn again later when its safe....this is why its important to not disturb the male-especially if he is a new breeder.....

I like to hatch in water temp of 80-81F-sometimes too high of water temp can cause them to develop too fast and they will be weak-same with water temp too low-too slow development and you can have fungus issues.

Depending on how you have your spawning tank setup and if its mature or not...you may or may not have plenty of microorganism for the fry to feed on for 1-2 days after they absorb their yolk sac and free swimming

Since I use a natural method to spawn-I can usually get away with not adding any food for 7-10 days and when I artificial hatch I may wait 3-4 days after free swimming even in a small container-then I feed newly hatch BBS with their yolk sac intact-this is when they are the smallest and contain the most nutrition

You can tell by the look of the fry tummy if they are eating microorganism-the tummy should have little black dots and bulging and with BBS the tummy should be bulging and look yellow, pink or orange in color-this can vary based on the BBS life stage.

Good luck and don't give up...it can be frustrating but once you get a successful spawn-rear them and then spawn the offspring it is usually much easier....

Look forward to following your spawn log.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks ofl, that helps a lot, its been exactly 24 hours now so im hoping to see some fry hanging from the nest soon... i hope ><
i still see the eggs in the nest and only one fell out so i still have hopes..

thanks for the help, my next spawns will be a lot easier thanks to your advice
 
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