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Congrats......

When I have a known egg eater and need to artificial hatch the eggs-I either remove the male as careful as possible so not to disturb the nest causing the eggs to fall and allow them to hatch in the spawning tank or I will use a small container and allow the eggs and nest to flow in it and then float it in the spawning tank or heated tank-since I have lots of live plants and usually the nest is under water lettuce anyway-I will have live plants in my artificial hatch container-I also cover it with plastic veggie wrap-

If I had to harvest the eggs the same day they spawned-I wait 24h and then add 1 common snail-a small one-this snail will first eat any eggs that are decaying or not viable on the bottom of the container-then its starts on the ones in the nest-once the snails runs out of non viable/fungus eggs it will start on healthy one-this is why I wait 24h and limit it to 1 small common snail-snails like decaying stuff first or at least that has been my experience......
Usually I will get about 75-80% success on the artificial hatch-higher if I allow the male to tend to them longer-but with known eggs eater you don't have a choice...

I give my breeders 3 chances-sometimes they eat eggs because they are not fertile to start or something is wrong-and sometimes if the male is disturbed too much they will eat the eggs-instinct-the thinking that its better for them to get the protein so they will have energy to spawn again later when its safe....this is why its important to not disturb the male-especially if he is a new breeder.....

I like to hatch in water temp of 80-81F-sometimes too high of water temp can cause them to develop too fast and they will be weak-same with water temp too low-too slow development and you can have fungus issues.

Depending on how you have your spawning tank setup and if its mature or not...you may or may not have plenty of microorganism for the fry to feed on for 1-2 days after they absorb their yolk sac and free swimming

Since I use a natural method to spawn-I can usually get away with not adding any food for 7-10 days and when I artificial hatch I may wait 3-4 days after free swimming even in a small container-then I feed newly hatch BBS with their yolk sac intact-this is when they are the smallest and contain the most nutrition

You can tell by the look of the fry tummy if they are eating microorganism-the tummy should have little black dots and bulging and with BBS the tummy should be bulging and look yellow, pink or orange in color-this can vary based on the BBS life stage.

Good luck and don't give up...it can be frustrating but once you get a successful spawn-rear them and then spawn the offspring it is usually much easier....

Look forward to following your spawn log.....
 
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