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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sid Fishus is on day 3 of treatment with Protozin and two of his three ich spots have fallen off.

Sid's just as bright as a button and eating well. He's generally in good shape, compared to the sad droopy little fish I brought home 2 weeks ago.

I did one 50% water change before the day 2 dose, and vacuumed the tank thoroughly. I plan to repeat this tomorrow. His temp is 30C and his water's fine.

So far so good - except the largest cyst, kind of on the back of his head behind his gill, isn't budging.

Is this normal? Are some cysts more resistant than others? It's looking quite raised now, and there's a little inflammation around it.
 

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I have something similar going on with one of my females. I would be interested in this answer too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I think the cyst finally fell off. It's day 3 of the treatment and I can't re-dose until day 6 - so does that mean a risk of the swimmy parasites attaching to Sid before I can kill 'em all?

Is there anything I can do?

I'm doing another water change in the morning and vacuuming the gravel again but I'm worried that 3-day gap will be a problem.

Sid's having a blast, the ich and the treatment haven't bothered him one bit. Little trooper, he is. <3
 

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Ick will reproduce on the bottom of the tank. You'll want to slowly raise the temperature to 83/85 degrees and do 100% water changes for a few days, a week would be excellent. Ick isn't always visible, it will sometimes go under their gill covers. Does your tank have gravel or sand? It would help if you moved your betta to a 1 or 2g heated critter keeper so you can just cup him, dump the water, and rinse it out before putting him back.
 

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30C = 86F so you are good there. 86 is a good minimum temperature, as it means ich can not reproduce (90F can kill ich outright).

When you are doing these water changes, are you adding new medication to the fresh water? If you are not, then you are just diluting the medication and loosing any effectiveness from it.

You should follow the directions on the box, if they don't mention water changes ... don't. The directions I found online said:
"By adding the treatment on days 1, 2 and 3 the product safely compounds in strength and does not burden the already stressed animals with a hard hitting formula. The final dose on day 6 is a preventative measure to try and ensure the organism does not re-occur."

Which would strongly suggest you are not suppose to change any water as they are attempting to slowly ramp the dose up over the first 3 days, then give it a booster on the 6th.

Personally, I wouldn't mess with changing water unless you have an ammonia/nitrite problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you all for your replies and concerns.

I've used the main tank, as he's only a new fish (had him 2 weeks) and he gets very stressy in the smaller tank. It's also a pretty new tank and I'm a bit scared of missing water changes. The temp is 80 degrees, which Sid loves.

I did some research on the net and found that water changes are fine right before it's time for the next treatment, as Protozin becomes inactive after around 24 hrs. Water changes also help rid the tank of any residual nasty swimmers released from the ich cysts, apparently. So I'm re-dosing after each water change, since it'd be time to add the new dose anyhow.

The ich spots are all gone, and so is the lump that one stubborn one left. I vacuumed the gravel thoroughly and did 100% water change, leaving the filter material (minus carbon, I took that out before starting the treatment as per instructions) and ornaments alone, as that's supposed to be where most of the good bacteria live anyhow.

My water quality is still really good, and I'm testing daily just in case. My fish is still a happy camper, and the last dose goes in tomorrow, and then I guess we'll see whether the ich stays gone or not.

I've read some really mixed reviews of Protozin - it either works a charm or really doesn't do a thing. It seems to be working so far, so cross fingers, I guess.
 
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