Remove 25% every week

 

Only remove 25% once a week in a 3/4 gallon fish bowl? That sounds really off to me.

 

Why??

 

Most of us here do 25%-30% water changes weekly. Large water changes shock your fish and kill the good bacteria in 100% water changes. It is best to do small, frequent water changes than large water changes every so often.

 

@superswimmer that only applies to larger, permanent tanks. A 3/4 gallon bowl is not going to cycle. The ammonia will build up very fast.

I recommend a 100% water change daily.

 

I don't think that is a good idea. I guess since it is temporary, than you could do a 60% water change every two or three days. I see where your going, but if you do that then the shock of moving him to a cup and back everyday and the shock of the temperature each time will weaken him and possibly allow room for disease especially when you put him into the new aquarium. Use Seacherm Prime water conditioner to help protect him from ammonia.

 

I do 100% water changes on many of my tanks with zero problems. There should be no temperature shock with proper acclimation.

 

I don't believe in doing that. I think it isn't right to remove a fish from its home that often. Test your water and make your water changes based off your results.

 

In an unfiltered 1 gallon tank ammonia builds up very very fast. It is necessary to do large daily water changes to remove that ammonia and prevent harm to the fish.

My fry tanks get daily water changes and I've never seen a single sign of stress.

Great, you believe in leaving fish in their homes. I personally believe in mantaining safe water so the fish can be as healthy as possible.

 

Okay, well again still no clear answer. I think I will do 90% frequently (every other day?) until I can get him in the aquarium next week. Thanks for the replies.

 

Then why do you do 100% water changes? Look I don't want to start an argument. What I say is based on my experience, the same for you I am guessing. Experiences are different for everybody because all fish are different. As I previously stated, test your water daily and if ammonia is too high, do a change to remove it.

 

Most experienced betta keepers on here that I've seen will recommend daily 100% water changes in anything under a gallon. Anything less and the ammonia will build up, potentially poisoning your fish.



Because that is what is needed in some of my tanks to maintain water quality and keep my fish thriving.
Yes, every fish is different. But no fish is immune to ammonia poisoning.

 

I think that is the best idea. Good luck!

 

Are you done trolling me?

 

I'll take it you are unwilling to have your views challenged and participate in this discussion?

 

Your the one who is arguing with me. Why are you just shooting me down? I can give my opinion about something and so can you. I am tryin to make Mev's betta keeping as easy as possible by sharing what has worked for me.

 

Apparently we're looking at the discussion from two completely different angles. I saw it as a friendly discussion where we happened to disagree and were sharing our opinions and thoughts. :\

 

Well I got the wrong idea when you insulted me by saying I don't like having my views challenged and I don't discuss things. Sorry. No hard feelimgs?

 

I was responding to your odd claim that I was "trolling" you. No hard feelings ;-)

 

Okay.

 

First, Welcome to the Forum! :wave:

I am not fond of 100% water changes because they can be extremely stressful on an already stressed Betta. However, I use Seachem Prime as my water conditioner which detoxifies Ammonia. My preferred method in a tank that small would be to remove as much water as it takes to leave your boy in about an inch. I would do this every or every other day. But this is only if using Seachem Prime. Dose would be one drop with water changes and one drop between. I would use a turkey baster to remove any leftover food or waste each day whether I did a water change or not.

If you buy Prime this may be the best option for a neglected Betta to keep from further stressing him. As you said, you'll have a new tank this coming week so it's not as if this would be a lifetime practice.

I believe this tutorial will be of great help when you get the 2.5:

http://www.bettafish.com/showthread.php?t=555434

 

In a bowl that small 100% water changes would be an absolute necessity. Ammonia will build up very quickly without daily water changes. Since you are expecting a larger tank soon, he should be able to withstand the changes until then. Do not net him. It's best to cup him, which admittedly may be a bit difficult, but if you have a small solo cup, it should work. You will need to acclimate him each time you introduce him to the fresh tank so the change in water quality does not shock him. Changing the water will be a bit of a hassle but it will be in his best interest. And congratulations on ordering him a decent sized tank, it will enhance his quality of life. If you filter it, the tank will eventually cycle and only partial water changes will be necessary on a regular basis. Making life easier for you as well.

 

Before my mom's little betta girl was in her current 5 gallon, she was in a temporary bowl. I did 100% water changes every 3 days or so and on the day before it, I would add prime to detoxify ammonia. I would never go more than 48 hours without adding prime or changing the water completely... and that's kinda stretching it really, as others have said, ammonia builds VERY fast in a bowl. Not longer than 24 hours would be better.

She never had an issue with being cupped. Simple method- take a little cup, dunk it near her to scoop her up, set her aside. Dump and rinse bowl completely. Then what I would do is have a gallon jug of water that was already sitting out for 24+ hours, primed. That way, there's less chance of shocking the fish as the parameters (ph, temperature, and whatnot) shouldn't be much different from the water that was already in the bowl.

Then I'd dump out most of the water in her cup (holding my hand over it so she doesn't jump of course), and then add a bit of new water from the bowl, wait a minute to observe that she's still acting normally, and then finally add her into the bowl. Never had any problems.

It DOES depend on the fish though, whether it would stress them out or not. In my experience, most fish aren't very bothered, but I do have one girl who is high strung and easily stressed, so any water changes would make her stripe up immediately (stress stripes).

Long explanation, but pretty simple, really. lol

 

Like splashy said, that only applies to larger tanks. I would do 100% every day as well until the 2.5 comes.

 

Thanks so much for all the advice. Much appreciated and very helpful. I've decided to do full daily water changes until the aquarium arrives.

But reading about cycling has brought up another question. Fish-in cycling is starting to frighten me because....well I'm terrified of killing Archie. Is it a better idea to keep him in the bowl and cycle the aquarium without him? I've just ordered the AFI (?)water testing kit as well as Prime and I'm committed to spending time to make the in-fish cycling work but still scared

 

Easy peasy. ;-) As long as you test daily and do 25% water changes at .25ppm Ammonia and Nitrite or 50% at .50ppm Archie will be fine. If you're worried then do the 25% @ .25ppm. But both work. Remember to dose Prime with and between water changes @ 2 drops per gallon.

 

The 100% water change is an old custom in Betta-keeping because Betta are the only ones that can tolerate such a small tank. I think it became customary before the advent of good ammonia-locking conditioners. With Prime making any residual ammonia harmless, it is now less important to scavenge every molecule of ammonia from the tank.

Russel recommends 80% every day or so with Prime. I think a 50% every second or third day with a >80% every third change should be enough. You can see this as two ends of a spectrum of an acceptable water change schedule. But precedence should be given to water test readings to determine how much and how often to change water.

Removing the Betta can be stressful for everyone. I, personally, would minimize removals, even if the fish appears cooperative.

He would also benefit from larger water immediately, if you can find a clean >1g container of any kind.

Do you have a thermometer (at least) to track temperature. You'll want a 25w adjustable heater to maintain consistent temperature.

As for the safety of fish-in cycling, that's another area where modern locking conditioners provide an extra element of security. The tutorial is reassuring in that regard.

If you're still not comfortable, open a thread asking about the "bucket cycle." I'll be happy to explain it there.

Welcome to the forum. Sorry about the stress.

 

+1 Hallyx. A lot of practices, including 100% maintenance water changes on adult Betta, are holdovers from the days when 1. City water was only treated with chlorine so leaving out for 24 hours was all that was needed for new water; and, 2. There were no Ammonia locking products.

In the end it is up to you to do what feels most comfortable.

Please try to keep threads on topic. Also note the "Report" button (triangle with !). If you find a post unacceptable hit the button instead of responding.

 

In response to the replies of it being best not to remove the betta... in my experience, cupping (scooping them up real quick from the surface) seems much less stressful because (when doing a 60%+ change), if the fish is left in the bowl when you add the new water, it throws them all over the bowl, which I've observed they act much more stressed about. Even trying to pour it slowly, the current it creates causes them to have to swim so hard to avoid getting thrown around, and freaks them out from having water being poured right over them (b/c a bowl isn't that big lol). So... that's just my logic, just wanted to clarify.

 

Some Betta really find it stressful to be removed and stuffed into a little cup. Even if they don't freak out, they may be stressed. Of course, some are very easy-going and don't mind.

Some Betta will swim away and hide from the pouring of refill water. The solution: pour it slowly, pour it over your hand, or siphon it back in. But most (not all) of the Betta I've kept enjoy playing in the refill water.

About your previous post: Prime loses it protective qualities in 24 to 48 hours whether it's locking any ammonia or just sitting there in new, refill water waiting to be used. Allowing Primed refill water to sit and "age" serves no useful purpose; it's just a waste of Prime. Prime works immediately. Dose your temperature-matched refill water just before pouring it into the tank.