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water

675 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Draug Isilme
I used the API water test kit to get these results, but am not sure if it is betta safe. http://www.google.com/products/cata...=n3lFT-vaOqPt0gHS0ZXqAw&sqi=2&ved=0CHEQ8gIwBw#

ph= 7.6
High Range PH= 7.4
Amonia= 4.0 ppm
Nitrite= .25 ppm
Nitrate= 5.0 ppm

Our water has always been fine, but recently have had a few fish die and are starting to really test water first.

Also I use the homer paint bucket from home depot for my water, is it safe? Thanks in advance!
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No this water is not safe.

Where is this water coming from? This can't be right out of a tap..Is it out of a tank? Does this tank have a filter?

Was the bucket previously used for paint or other materials or did you buy it unused to put water in?
Might also want to check the expiration dates. You usually don't have to worry about them, especially if you just recently bought them, but you never know- it's something worth checking if anything. Some of the products will expire within two years while some of the others will expire 4+ years. I forget which, otherwise I'd tell you specifically -.-;;; But yeah, see about checking that as well!
Those readings are pretty wild o_O;
Have you properly cycled your tank? Usually what happens is once the tank goes through the nitrogen cycle, the nitrate eats up the other stuff so there shouldn't be any ammonia readings or nitrite readings... unless the cycle is crashing, then you'll see readings like nitrite and/or ammonia.... but even then, I don't imagine ammonia would be that high.... Also, what's your tank size and stock? Really not sure about the bucket, but it could also be the culprit if you don't know all the 'specs'...
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Wait, 4.0 Ammonia ppm! The only suitable, comfortable, and ideal ammonia level for aquatic animals is 0 ppm for ammonia. Check your kit to make sure it's not expired, and I suggest buying a separate bucket for changing your water or getting an Aqueon Water Changer, that way you don't have to risk poisoning your fish from a painting bucket. If you have a tank over 2.5 gallons with a filter (per fish, if more than 1), I would recommend doing a 50% water change. Some people might disagree with me but if you have a filter, all the beneficial bacteria is in there, and it will stay there as long as you don't change the cartridge. Next, I would test your water again to see if the ammonia has gone down.
^ Sounds good! Might I add, though, to wait a whole day before testing after a change. Sometimes people forget, so I felt the need to toss in it there >.>
Oh yeah, that's a good point, bettalover!! It totally slipped my mind today, but when I was scrounging around the web about fish related stuff, I came across a forum where this one guy had a reading of 8ppm ammonia!

http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?nav=messages&webtag=ab-freshaquaria&tid=15609

He was using API Ammo Lock and apparently that stuff can give false readings even if you're using the master kit to test your water.... It might be as simple as changing your conditioner and/or whatever products you've been adding to your aquarium.

Edit: Personally, Prime seems like the overall best dechlorinator. Not only does it do everything you need it to do for your water, you won't have to worry about false readings (save for a bit of ammonium that can possibly be in your tap water) AND you get more bang for your buck- it's much more concentrated so in comparison to using 1 tsp to a gallon, Prim only takes 1mL per 10 gallon; So essentially 2-3 drops per gallon!
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My stuff is brand new and the dates are good for a few years still. I waited a few days before testing. Its a 1 gallon, I have this tank and will get a different one in a few months. It has a filter and a light. The live plants seem to be dying as well. I didn't use my bucket yet. Just bought it from home depot. UNUSED by anymeans. Will regular changes fix this?
Okay, so it doesn't sound like the testing kit, which is good ^.^ Still would help to know what kind of water conditioner and/or other chemicals you've used for your tank; as I've stated before these things can be known to give false results depending on what they are. How long have you had your tank exactly and how frequent have you changed the water?
Also as far as the plants go, what kind of light bulb are you using? And what kind of plants do you have exactly? Sometimes it can be as easy as changing the light bulb or the plants just aren't suitable for the conditions you have depending on the maintenance and the species of plant (like anacharis is a great low light plant, but there are different types of anacharis that do better in cold water and some are more suitable with warm water)... Regular changes are definitely a must, especially with smaller tanks; they actually require more responsibility/maintenance so it definitely helps to keep up with water changes religiously....
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Draug has you totally covered in terms of water chemistry. Wow, 4.0 ammonia...that's insane.

Anyway, I just wanted to add that you will need a heater as well if you plan on keeping a betta. :)

When your readings return to normal (0 ammonia and nitrites, <20 nitrates), you will need to maintain a schedule of one 50% and one 100% change per week to keep a one gallon tank clean.
Okay, so it doesn't sound like the testing kit, which is good ^.^ Still would help to know what kind of water conditioner and/or other chemicals you've used for your tank; as I've stated before these things can be known to give false results depending on what they are. How long have you had your tank exactly and how frequent have you changed the water?
Also as far as the plants go, what kind of light bulb are you using? And what kind of plants do you have exactly? Sometimes it can be as easy as changing the light bulb or the plants just aren't suitable for the conditions you have depending on the maintenance and the species of plant (like anacharis is a great low light plant, but there are different types of anacharis that do better in cold water and some are more suitable with warm water)... Regular changes are definitely a must, especially with smaller tanks; they actually require more responsibility/maintenance so it definitely helps to keep up with water changes religiously....
I used the zoo med betta water conditioner. What type of light would you recommend for a 10gal (I may give up on the plants for the 1 gal until I get a bigger tank)? I also used some kind of plant supplement. I used the last of it so can't remember what it was exactly. It was in a yellow bottle and that's all I can tell you about that.
Huh.. Not sure if that kind of brand conditioner can give funky results... You might want to look into it and make sure it's not, though. From what I know of it, though, I've never heard of it causing false results but you never know.. I'll be sure to try to dig a bit into it as well when I get the chance/not as sleepy as I am atm xD Anyway.... Well, my bulb is a 6500k, 10w bulb for a 5g tank. If memory serves me right, it helps to have at least 2 watts per gallon so just make sure it's at least 20w and 6500k; you can get away with 5500-7000k, but 6500k is just more ideal; at least for low light plants and I can't remember if you've mentioned what kind of plants you have or not, I'll have to check back when I'm not so sleepy >.<.... There's nothing wrong with having plants in a 1g, I personally think it's great. You still need to make sure you keep up with water changes, but the plants still help filter and keep the water clean; seems like it's better than the electrical filters you use, I think ^.^
Hmm.... Not sure what kind of plant supplement that is >.>... It could've also been the thing to mess with the test results. Since you don't have anymore and so long as your plants are low light/maintenance then you can get away without plant supplements.. You should see about testing your tap water if you haven't and then after that test your 1g again after you do a large water change/make sure the plant supplements in your tank is as deluted as possible. Hopefully your test results will make more sense, then!!
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