Betta Fish Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I'm not even certain that Dahvie is ill. Sometimes he acts lethargic other times he's darting around all peachy.

However, I do notice some different coloration on his body and I know for a fact he DEFINITELY has fin rot.

I don't think he's bloated I think he's fat, I caught him eating the bottom swimmers food. I don't have to worry about this anymore because I have moved him to the 2.5 gallon tank and that is where he's permanently staying.

So before I just assume all is well and end up being wrong what do you think? The white specks are not on him they are bubbles on the glass. And yes, I'm aware the gravel has yuck on it, brown algae is quite a nuisance :-?

This photo was taken during one of his rather mopey lethargic moments
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,653 Posts
He looks fine to me... Some bettas can get lazier, especially when they are older. I have ones who swim around, do their thing then they laze about :lol:

How often do you do a water change, especially since he has fin rot now?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Once a week but now that he's in the 2.5 gal I'm probably going to do it 2 times a week unless instructed differently
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,653 Posts
Right now for the fin rot, the twice a week should do him well. Try leaving him in though, otherwise it could stress him out to be cupped/netted/scooped :)

You have a heater in there?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Right now for the fin rot, the twice a week should do him well. Try leaving him in though, otherwise it could stress him out to be cupped/netted/scooped :)

You have a heater in there?
nope. if i put one in it would boil the fish my room gets extra hot considering it's an upstairs room. By morning i'd be having a fish stick for breakfast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,653 Posts
:lol: ahh!! I have a fish room usually set to 90 degrees with a room heater :3 right now it's about 82, leaving my fish at 78ish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
my room gets so hot that the tanks usually set anywhere around 72-80 so i'm sure if i was to try a heater it'd shoot that up to 90
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
Really hard to see clearly.. he does seem dull for the colors he is. Need to clearly see the head and base of the dorsal as that is where you see problems show up.

What are your water parameters? Ammonia is the big question. Anything other than zero and you stress the fish and they will get lethargic. Picture yourself snuffing ammonia and you get the picture of what the fish must live in. Even a little is too much. Doing a 50% water change will not help a fish in ammonia readings of 8 as you still have a reading of 4 when you are done. If you don't have a test kit.. get one. Not the strips.. drops. If the water is not healthy neither will your fish be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,653 Posts
If you get an adjustable heater, set it to 78. It won't raise the temperature passe that and if the temperature of the tank is... let's say...82, the heater will be off as it won't keep heating and heating :) This avoids the fluctuations to 72, which isn't healthy for them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Really hard to see clearly.. he does seem dull for the colors he is. Need to clearly see the head and base of the dorsal as that is where you see problems show up.

What are your water parameters? Ammonia is the big question. Anything other than zero and you stress the fish and they will get lethargic. Picture yourself snuffing ammonia and you get the picture of what the fish must live in. Even a little is too much. Doing a 50% water change will not help a fish in ammonia readings of 8 as you still have a reading of 4 when you are done. If you don't have a test kit.. get one. Not the strips.. drops. If the water is not healthy neither will your fish be.

There's nothing different about his head and dorsal fin, no strange markings or rips. Just the dull colors and momentarily lethargic.

He's swimming like normal now so I'm thinking he just may have been stressed out in the 10 gallon. His fin rot is also looking better I see parts of his tail and such growing back.

I don't have a test kit and I know I'm going to get reamed for this but I just can not afford one. All I can do is take water samples to work with me and have them test it there and every time I have done so they have said my water is safe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,899 Posts
Was his red always that dark? That's the colour my stressed out red/blue crowntail turns if I cup him.
Just want to ask, are you getting actual numbers? "Safe" levels coming from a pet store worker can actually be unsafe in reality.
How long had he been in the ten gallon before you noticed this?
Posted via Mobile Device
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
When I first got him he became very ill still not sure of what but he had fin clamp and lost his color. I was told he may never get it back but it is slowly..very slowly..coming back so yes he pretty much has always been that dark from the start of when I got him.

He's been in the 10 gallon since feb

No I'm not getting numbers but I do trust the people telling me his water is safe considering I actually personally know them and know that they do know what they are talking about.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
750 Posts
There's nothing different about his head and dorsal fin, no strange markings or rips. Just the dull colors and momentarily lethargic.

He's swimming like normal now so I'm thinking he just may have been stressed out in the 10 gallon. His fin rot is also looking better I see parts of his tail and such growing back.

I don't have a test kit and I know I'm going to get reamed for this but I just can not afford one. All I can do is take water samples to work with me and have them test it there and every time I have done so they have said my water is safe.
If your dealing with fish people at the shop that is fine. My locals don't know anything about fish.. and it is what you can do so that is good. Just get those readings and keep track of them so you know what is going on. It is just you need to test a few times a week and see what is going on in the tank with the water. Like you can go 3 days then the ammonia goes up. That will help you manage your water changes. It will also show you where you are in the cycle. In time try to get the ammonia test. If you didn't have a heater they get lethargic with the cold. I'd keep him closer to 80* if you can.

You are not looking for rips but a dense short fuzz or dark colored patch. If you don't see anything that is great. A flashlight is good for looking them over.. and easier to see velvet too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
He had a heater in the 10 gallon. He seriously perked up a lot more once he was moved into the 2.5 gallon. I know about the fuzz and velvet stuff I did use a flashlight and I actually take him out of the tank and put him in a betta cup when I look for those to get a better look. Nothing was showing up.

I'm using stress coat to help with the fin rot..and I heard aquarium salt keeps Ich and Velvet at bay so I add salt during every water change.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top