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Which water should I use?

1651 Views 8 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  serenebeach, 
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My head is spinning from everything I've been researching about the best water for my betta. I've had him for about 3 months and he is in an unfiltered, heated 1 gallon cube. I had been using tap water conditioned with Prime for his water changes (100% once to twice a week). I recently tested my tap water and realized that the water straight from the tap has 1.0ppm Ammonia. I tested my Pur filtered water from the fridge door and it read .25ppm Amm so for the last couple of water changes I used that. I switched from Prime to Aqueon Betta Bowl Plus because it said that it adds trace elements...which I read are removed by the Pur filter.

Also, he may have some fin rot due to an injury when I tried to use a cup instead of a net to remove him a few weeks ago...I accidentally broke off a couple of fin rays with the edge of the cup. I started using aquarium salt and betta fix, but i haven't seen any change so today I did 100% water change and went back to my tap water treated with Prime and nothing else.

If someone could let me know which water option is better: the tap water with ammonia treated with Prime or the filtered, fridge water treated with Betta Bowl Plus. I worry about the ammonia in the tap water only being neutralized for 24 hours with the Prime. But is filtered water lacking important minerals?:hmm:

Thanks! It's amazing how this little creature has found his way into my heart. I just want to make sure that Mr. Fishburne (Lawrence) is healthy and has the best water I can provide.
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Your 1gal unfiltered tank is fine IMO/E.....I would use your tap water with the Prime-making twice weekly water changes....1-50% and 1-100% and add a 1gallon dose of the Prime spaced out between the water changes to meet the 48h time line once you have finished the treatment for the fin rot or add live plants like water lettuce, frogbit, duckweed, naja grass, wisteria, hornwort all are big feeders to assist with ammonia/ammonium.

Too many water changes can be stressful on both of you, however, since you are also dealing with fin rot-depending on how bad it is-you may want to make every other day 50% with 100% one time a week.

If he has really delicate fins he may not be able to tolerate the larger tank especially with filtration-some-not all- long fin males can have problems keeping fins intact with too much space and water movement-setting them up for secondary infection.....

Nutrition is really important too-good quality varied diet fed in small frequent meals and if you have any mosquito larva offer a few rinsed for a meal to boost protein intake to promote healing.

If you have a tannin source-either IAL or naturally died and fallen from the tree Oak leaf-this can also help toughen scales/fins, ease stress- as well as the antibacterial/fungal properties to assist with the secondary infection.
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For medical reasons-gather naturally dried and fallen from the tree- I use about 18-20 crushed per gallon of premixed treatment water-the longer they steep the more tannins are released the darker the water.

When using tannins you need to properly acclimate them since they can change the pH some-you can add some whole leaves to the tank and then have your replacement water pre-tanned to use for water changes.

When I treat-I like to use small bare containers that can be floated in the heated tank and premix the treatment water in a 1gal jug of dechlorinated water-add a therapeutic dose of aquarium salt 2-3tsp/gal and the tannin source-I let this steep for at least 30min and use it to make 25% water changes every 15min for 1hour the first day-then 50% daily for 10 days for fin rot, external injuries-Every day the premixed water should be darker.

You can also treat/use the Oak leaf in the tank itself-I would add them whole/un-crushed to make it easier to remove them as they start to decay-if you have an acrylic tank-the tannins will stain it-but you can use an acrylic safe scrubber to remove and/or vinegar-with glass tanks- razor blade works well
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